96 Club Car Regen 1 Troubleshooting

[quickhappy]

I need some help troubleshooting a 96 Club Car Regen 1 I believe. It has the F/R rocker switch.

Here is what I know so far. When the key is turned on the 1st solenoid engages. I hit the pedal and nothing. Batteries are good, cables and connections are good.

What I need to know is how to test the controller. I'm also wondering if there is a way to bypass the potentiometer to eliminate that as being a problem. I was thinking if it works off of 5ohms at rest down to 0 at full throttle then can't I jumper two wires together and the cart should run full throttle if that is the issue??? This cart has the gray trianguler shaped connection for the potentiometer. The micro-switch that is mounted outside the potentiometer I have verified and is working.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as online it seems hit and miss. I'm looking for some solid troubleshooting advice.

What wires do I jumper on the motor to eliminate that from being bad??

How do I bypass the OBC to eliminate that? Most posts say jumper the (small) "yellow" wire on the solenoid. There is no small "yellow" wire on the solenoid in this cart.

Is there a way to test the forward/reverse switch? Does one wire need voltage, etc...


I've attached the wiring diagram for this cart. PLEASE HELP. Need some club car gurus to help me here. I don't want to buy parts and throw it at this.

[glassk]

http://gaminde.net/clubcar/man/1995_...ice_manual.pdf

about 20Mb, might be you, might not be,...

[joesam]

That is the correct manual for Regen 1 - troubleshooting & tests for Regen 1 start at Section 21-A.

Also - you should check to see if you've got a replacement (newer GE) controller (Grey with short adapter cable) or a Black T-shaped GE original? Its mounted "upside down" on the frame behind the passenger seat. Also is your battery light Red (original OBC) or Amber (replacment OBC)?

Lastly - there was a guy with a Regen 1 last year whose cart had stopped - he had an original Black controller - buy doing a connections alcohol clean-up (described in this thread) he was back on the road in no time (gotta be worth a shot anyway).

[quickhappy]

Thank you for both of replies. I will see if this helps me in the next couple of days. It is the original controller. Does anyone know if you can bypass the potentionmeter? I know how to test for ohms but I'm thinking and it's very possible I'm wrong as I mildy understand electricity but if its full throttle at 0 ohms which is true conitnuity then can't bypass it at the gray plug with a jumper? Do I ground the white wire? Join the other two wires together? Anyone

[joesam]

It is the original controller

Not too many of those left operating (although I have one) - they are no longer available

bypass the potentionmeter

You seem to be focused on the potentiometer being the issue. I am doubtful. Usually there are signs (jerky or intermittent) before they fail. Does the reverse buzzer sound when you switch in reverse?

Here's how a stock Regen 1 is supposed to operate.
1) Turn key - you will hear a solid click. Then without touching anything you should hear another click (timeout on the auto-run mode) between 10 to 30 seconds later. Are you hearing that? If not - the controller is not getting startup power (the OBC "can" cause this).

2) If you DID heard those clicks in the sequence described - then hit the accelerator - you should hear the main solenoid click-in just like when you turned the key, and the cart will (supposedly) begin to move.

[quickhappy]

Thanks again everyone for your help and input. I'm going back today to do some troubleshooting on the controller. The cart ended up just working out of the blue. I went to go get the back seat and before I put it on I figured I'd test again just in case and it doesn't work. This is so weird. I tested all solenoids, wires for continuity and all is good. I think I'm down to controller & motor as whats wrong. If anyone has some tips/tricks please let me know. Why would it work, then all of sudden not work and then not even be intermitment but just flat out not work.

[joesam]

Controllers aren't self healing. Most likely it's a flakey connection. Regen 1 owners frequently benefit from the alcohol connector clean up.

[joesam]

Another possibility is an intermittent key switch. Working then not working really suggests a poor connection of some kind. Although its possible to have an intermittent connection (eg cold solder joint) inside your controller - the probability is really low since its worked for so many years.

Its possible to have stuck brushes in the motor which could do that but these motors are tough suckers so also not likely. Since it has stopped working do you hear the click when you turn the key?

[glassk]

Have you looked at the manual I posted a link to,

SPEED CONTROL CIRCUIT (FIGURE 21-11)
The ground speed of the vehicle is regulated by the input voltage supplied to the motor by the controller.
Although the motor operates on 48 volt input at both low and high speeds, the controller regulates ground
speed of the vehicle by shortening or lengthening the pulses to the motor. Shorter pulses result in lower
speeds and longer pulses result in higher speeds.
Speed Control Circuit, Continued:
The potentiometer detects accelerator pedal position and sends a corresponding voltage signal to the controller.
As the accelerator pedal is depressed, voltage from the potentiometer changes, causing the controller
to send longer pulses to the motor and thereby increasing vehicle speed.
The Speed Control Circuit Consists of:
• The potentiometer.
• The controller.
• The Z9 Transistor located inside the controller.
• The Z10 Transistor located inside the controller.
• The 18 gauge yellow wire from the potentiometer to Z9 position on the Z plug/controller.
• The 18 gauge white/black wire from the potentiometer to the B- terminal on the controller.
• The 18 gauge purple wire from the potentiometer to Z10 position on the Z Plug/controller.
Page 21-11

Z PLUG CONNECTIONS

Z8
Green/White Wire from Potentiometer Limit Switch

With key switch ON and accelerator pedal depressed, Z8
transistor completes the circuit from potentiometer limit switch
through green/white wire to controller, which actuates the
controller and starts the vehicle.



Z9
Yellow Wire from Potentiometer Movable contact
Controller varies vehicle speed depending on voltage input
from the potentiometer through the yellow wire as the
accelerator pedal is depressed.


Z10
Purple Wire to Potentiometer Stationary Contact
Varies voltage input to the controller through purple wire from
potentiometer. High Pedal Detect is activated if input is below
3 volts when the key switch is turned ON.

[glassk]

Originally Posted by quickhappy

How do I bypass the OBC to eliminate that? Most posts say jumper the (small) "yellow" wire on the solenoid. There is no small "yellow" wire on the solenoid in this cart.
.

Test Procedure 13 - On-board Computer By-pass
If test procedures 1 through 12 show proper operation (no malfunction), but the solenoid will not actuate,
then the problem may be in the on-board computer solenoid lock-out circuit. By-pass the computer and test
the solenoid as follows:
1. Turn the key switch to OFF and place the forward and reverse switch in NEUTRAL. Leave the batteries
connected and leave the Z plug connected to the controller.
2. Locate the yellow wire at the Z12 position on the Z plug. Unplug the bullet connector in the yellow wire
approximately three inches (7.6 cm) from the Z plug.
3. Connect an 18 gauge jumper wire to the female bullet connector on the end of the yellow wire coming
from the Z plug. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to the negative (-) post of battery No. 6 (Figure
21-34).
4. Turn the key switch to ON. If the solenoid clicks, test the OBC and OBC fuses. If the solenoid does not
click, test the Z4 blue/white wire and the controller.