G1 creeps before it fires

[rmarti60]

1986 G1
Got it for free! Had been sitting for about three years. Got it running.
But as soon as the starter/generator starts turning, the cart is creeping long before it ever fires. So it's trying to start under a load.

At rest, with engine off, I can slide the drive belt (not the starter belt) around the pulleys fairly easily. I haven't taken the primary cover off to inspect it yet, but will do that next week when I'm at the cart's location again.

I've spent hours online looking for how to troubleshoot this symptom. I've found no reference at all to this problem.

I'm just hoping someone here has seen it before and can steer me in the right direction.

Thanks,


- Rick

[Mike Mac]

Rick, that is exactly what's it's suppose to do!! It's when it doesn't move on the starter, your beginning to have a problem!! But clutch maint is still very important for a good running car!!

Keep reading and enjoy!!

That looks like a fun little toy you have there!!

[Molon Labe]

I had a similar issue with my 82 G1. Tore the clutches apart and cleaned out 30 some years worth of dirt then lubed everything and put it back together. Haven't had that issue since. My guess is the clutch is slightly sticking on the shaft just enough to grab the belt.

[Spicyunicorn]

82 and 86 primary clutches are different early ones had a spring in them requires certain rpm for the clutch weights to over come spring tension so the motor would fire before it started moving the newer ones like the 86 had same clutch as g2 with no spring so it starting moving as soon as the starter is engaged so it's normal but it never hurts to clean them just use a dry lithium grease so future dust down have a place to collect

[rmarti60]

Thanks Mike.
Thanks Spicy

Very helpful!

I've now read just about everything on this forum about the G1.

Once it's finished needing choke and really warmed up (usually about 5 minutes) she just purrs along until I let it stop.

Since it's still almost impossible to start (while creeping) and requires way too much choke for way too long, I'll clean/inspect the clutch, Clean/inspect the carb, make sure the exhaust is clear and check for leaking seals.

I bet that's all I'll need to do.

You guys are the best.

Thanks.

And yea Mike, flying gyros is more fun than a person should be able to have legally. Being able to fly low and slow safely, observe the wildlife, chase the hogs and my other gyro buddies around the fields is about as good as it gets in the air.

[rmarti60]

I live in Bradenton Florida and travel to Live Oak Florida about every other weekend (my cart is in Live oak).

This weekend I'm going to change my crankshaft seals.

I would like to find one of our G owners near me and ask to borrow a primary sheave puller (I think I have the other needed pullers). I'm not trying to sound like a cheapskate but why pay $20+ for a tool I'll probably only use once? I'll even compensate the helpful soul.

Thanks,

- Rick

[Spicyunicorn]

Because the right 35$ tool is worth not destroying a 200+ dollar clutch.... plus that clutch puller works on a lot of other Yamaha carts if you ever do decide to up grade

[rmarti60]

Well I am kind of getting the bug. So that makes me feel a little better.
Still, if possible I'm looking for one to use this weekend.

[rmarti60]

Bought the primary clutch puller and got both seals changed. Cleaned everything and had the motor back in. Went to roll the drive belt on and realized the primary clutch was closed. The service manual I bought/downloaded showed that I should have a spring and a bushing between the two halves of the primary sheave. Mine didn't have one. At first I thought the parts were missing and it set me back about a half a day. Once I realized mine was not supposed to have the spring and bushing I realized that I had just installed the clutch with the weights flipped over center which was holding it closed. I got that all straightened out and Wow! She fired right up and took off running. Yee....ha!

I've lost reverse (It was working before). But after having all those connections apart and back together, and reading all I could on this great forum, I'm sure I'll find a bad connection or ground problem when I get back to the cart next weekend.

But in an effort to diagnose the reverse problem, let me say that the two big wires going to the inboard solenoid seem to get awfully warm when I ask it to go in reverse. The solenoid clicks, both fuses are good and the buzzer works in reverse. But the starter motor does not turn.

After I double check and again clean all connections, I will switch solenoids as suggested.
Electrical stuff is not my forte. So if the wires getting warm indicates a certain path for diagnosis please let me know. I do have a cheap multi-meter

I love this forum.

[Spicyunicorn]

When wires get hot usually means poor/bad connection check them again also the selonoids can be taken apart sometimes the contacts on the inside need cleaned up