1990 CC - Resistor to Controller

[NigelS]

I've got a 1990 CC 36V Resistor cart. I'm looking into converting it from resistors to a controller and need some direction. I've searched around some other forums and have confused myself even further I think. I mainly use my cart for driving the kids around town, so it's mainly street driving, but there are some pretty steep hills in town. I plan on putting a rear seat on, and may lift it and go to 48v eventually, but that's down the road awhile. I guess the main reason I'm looking into changing now is because it sounds like I may get better battery conservation and speed from a controller system. Any thoughts? Also, if anyone has any pictures of this mod, that would be helpful. I'm wondering where I would even put a controller on my cart. Thanks in advance. I'm a newbie so apologize for doubling up on questions, too.

[GLEEMO]

Ask scottyb for a real in depth detail on what it takes and what it will cost $$ he has done several and I think he even has a kit
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ads/c...Odz09&z=20&d=1

His phone # is on there some place

[scottyb]

Early carts ( pre 89-90ish) use a series of graduated sizes of speed resistor coils to regulate speed. Each coil in the group offered less resistance than the previous one. When you stepped on the gas 100% of the available battery power (amperage) was drawn and speed was regulated by how much of this amperage was burned off (wasted) by the resistor coils. So even if you push the peddle a little it drains the batteries same as wide open throttle. The gas peddle operated a wiper which swept a contact across stationary lugs which connected to the resistors. The solenoid merely switched power on /off to the speed wiper.
This is why it does you no good to just upgrade the solenoid....

Modern carts use solid state speed control. These controllers only draw as many amps as you ask for with the peddle.... If you push the peddle down 10% they deliver 10% of their capacity. I say their capacity because a controller is like a gate valve (or a hose bib) to the amperage stored in the batteries... We have different size controllers(valves) available so 10% of a 400 amp is less than 10% of a 650 amp controller. Amperage = Torque.
The solid state controller does not waste any amps and this increases the run time.Hope this helps?

All of that being said ....... You can not put 48v thru a resistor cart without melting one of the components I mentioned above eventually, period. We have pictures.

[NigelS]

Ok, I've got that. My biggest question is how to take small steps to get to 1. Add rear seat, 2. lift, and 3. convert to 48v. I think I would like to start with setting up my cart to change over to solid state. If I do that with 36v, can I use most of the same components when I flip over to 48v? What components to I need to change to go to solid state. I'm assuming a potentiometer to replace my v-glide, a controller to replace my coils, and cables for the different routings. Can I keep my same solenoid and f/r switch? I'm on a limited budget, so baby steps are preferred.

[scottyb]

Nigel, the solenoid is voltage sensitive but if you buy a good quality solenoid with silver oxide contacts you can run it on 36 & later 48v if you use 8/6v batteries. I highly suggest upgrading the drive system to solid state first and then adding seats and big tires.

[NigelS]

Those were my thoughts. I still question how the trottle control would work.

[scottyb]

You will need to fab something like this.

[GLEEMO]

Or perhaps one of the skilled person on here,
could make a few $$ and make it for U if U don't have the skills or time ?

[NigelS]

That looks like something I could fab up. Pictures help. Thanks.

[scottyb]

..worth a thousand words