36V ezgo txt: not moving/no power

[Leatherneck84]

I just picked up a 2000 ezgo txt- series golf cart this week. This cart has sat for 3 years. It had a new controller installed approx 3 years ago. I just replaced batteries and solenoid. I connected batteries just as they were and as directed in other 36V diagrams I've seen here. The solenoid is not clicking. I pressure washed the compartment 3 days prior to installing batteries (without controller cover installed). Not sure if that could have damaged controller? I placed a heater and fan directly over controller and motor for 24hrs after.
Is there a way to test the controller? I saw other posts mentioning the diodes being removed when troubleshooting- not sure if that will help?
Could the ignition switch be bad?
When i first connected everything the backup alarm was working- then I remembered the previous owner had it unplugged. When I plugged back in it no longer sounded in Reverse.
I also smelled a slight hot electrical smell at the charging port on cart (no hot wires or smoke).

I greatly appreciate any help anyone has to offer.

I have a 3 year old and 5 year old anxious to ride on this with daddy!

[blekenbleu]

Originally Posted by Leatherneck84

I pressure washed the compartment 3 days prior to installing batteries (without controller cover installed). Not sure if that could have damaged controller?

Stock controller is not even slightly waterproof; cover is for good reason.

When i first connected everything the backup alarm was working- then I remembered the previous owner had it unplugged.

My 2000 TXT reverse alarm was on constantly when controller failed from flooding.
I was unable to isolate burn smell so precisely..

TXT controller cover has diagnostics printed on it.
If those fail at first step, controller is likely shot.
Rebuilders reject flooded controlllers.

[Leatherneck84]

Thanks for the response blekenbleu- the controller is an aftermarket Curtis PMC. Not sure if that matters? I am not sure what the controller diagnostic test is? The backup alarm only sounded until it was in R. It's not sounding at all now. The smell is not strong at all and not anywhere near the controller side of cart.

[Leatherneck84]

Just curious- does anyone know a sequence for testing the controller (Curtis PMC 25864G05)?
If the controller was bad would the solenoid click at all?

[orangeman6]

Leather, does this sticky have what you need?

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

[Leatherneck84]

Orangeman- this appears to be exactly what I'm looking for. I'm really hoping there is a fault somewhere other than the controller/new solenoid. Wondering if having the diodes on solenoid not connected properly could cause this? As soon as I can run these tests I will and let ya'll know.

[blekenbleu]

Originally Posted by Leatherneck84

Wondering if having the diodes on solenoid not connected properly could cause this?

"not connected properly" could mean "connected backward" or "not connected".
Backward causes excessive current draw and often burns things in series with them.
Not connected results in high voltage spikes from abruptly disconnected inductance of solenoid coils not being snubbed,
and those spikes can damage electronics and chew up contacts in switches, relays etc.
Some controllers have diodes built-in, though.

[Leatherneck84]

Good morning- the smaller diode (primary posts) was installed backward.

I should have checked the solenoid sooner.. checked solenoid after running through all the tests Orangeman posted. There is no continuity between the large posts (secondary) on solenoid. Checked solenoid while it was disconnected. I must have bought a bad solenoid? Otherwise what could have caused the secondary on a brand new solenoid go bad?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Leatherneck84

Good morning- the smaller diode (primary posts) was installed backward.

I should have checked the solenoid sooner.. checked solenoid after running through all the tests Orangeman posted. There is no continuity between the large posts (secondary) on solenoid. Checked solenoid while it was disconnected. I must have bought a bad solenoid? Otherwise what could have caused the secondary on a brand new solenoid go bad?

The threaded stud of the terminal can spin on some solenoids, causing the contact to get misaligned.

Bob

[Leatherneck84]

Thank you Bob- an ezgo mechanic tell me that connecting the small diode backwards on solenoid could have burned up the micro switch at accelerator or at F&R. Anyone have experience with this?