Customizing my 2003 EzGo TXT PDS-build

[wingnut2000]

good youtube video shows how to replace fwd/rev assembly. I recently replaced mine and its pretty easy

[wingnut2000]

Originally Posted by wingnut2000

good youtube video shows how to replace fwd/rev assembly. I recently replaced mine and its pretty easy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2KCVRuhmoM

[toothninja]

Mutant- So, I ordered a new controller and solenoid and cables from ScottyB earlier today, so they should be coming in soon. He was very helpful in helping me determine what I need for what I'd like to accomplish and save me from future replacement.

Johnnie B, for my battery packs, I didn't realize that they hold a surface charge, so I will need to unplug them and check them out tomorrow. But I'll be able to check the "at rest" charge in a bit, after I take it for a spin around the block.
As for checking the switch, is there a labeled picture, because I have not figured out the J1 Pin lingo with regards to the cart yet...I am working on it though! :thumb:

WingNut- thanks for the link to the video link, but my cart is a PDS, so I have a switch on the dash, not under the seat...

Next question:
I've heard people discussing power washing the cart, inside and out...is this ok? even the battery compartment?? what about when you remove the environmental cover, since I assume it will not be going back on with the upgraded controller and such? I like the idea of blasting the sh...err, stuff, out of the compartment but want to make sure it's ok to do so.

[yurtle]

I'd avoid the solenoid, controller, all microswitches, dashboard, and the floormat, as the ITS doesn't like to get wet.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by toothninja

Johnnie B, for my battery packs, I didn't realize that they hold a surface charge, so I will need to unplug them and check them out tomorrow. But I'll be able to check the "at rest" charge in a bit, after I take it for a spin around the block.
As for checking the switch, is there a labeled picture, because I have not figured out the J1 Pin lingo with regards to the cart yet...I am working on it though! :thumb:

Attached is a schematic for a PDS drive with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted. There is a drawing of the controller at the top of the page that identifies all the jacks and terminals as well is the pin locations by number.

Originally Posted by toothninja

Next question:
I've heard people discussing power washing the cart, inside and out...is this ok? even the battery compartment?? what about when you remove the environmental cover, since I assume it will not be going back on with the upgraded controller and such? I like the idea of blasting the sh...err, stuff, out of the compartment but want to make sure it's ok to do so.

Water and electricity do not play well together.

In the battery compartment and motor area, I use various scrub brushes with baking soda/water solution to neutralize the acid and a Dawn/water solution to cut the dirt & grease. Followed by a thorough rinse with a low pressure/high volume stream from a garden hose without nozzle.

[toothninja]

JohnnieB, the battery pack came in at 38.4 about 24 hours after fully charged. They all registered within 0.04 of one another. But I haven't yet driven them and checked at the 1 hour mark. Will get on that soon enough. But they are charging good! I guess I have to check on the J1 pin 2 and 3 when I'm having the problem, not whenever it's working...that would make sense, so I have to wait on that. Thanks for all of your assistance!

[yurtle]

Your batteries sound good!

[JohnnieB]

FWIW:

There are three different types of battery voltage measurements and each has different a different significance.

1. At-Rest. Usually used to calculate the SoC (State of Charge) and is handy for troubleshooting.
At-Rest occurs from about 12 to 24 hours after charging ceases, or about an hour after discharging ceases.

2. Under-Load. A battery's voltage drops when amps are drawn from it. The typical voltage drop for a 36V battery pack is about 1V per 100A of current draw. Excessive voltage drop usually indicates a bad battery, or excessive resistance somewhere.

However, the resistance in the cables, connections, contacts and controller also drop voltage when amps are flowing, so the apparent drop under load may be 2 or 3 times that amount.

The voltage drop is almost instantaneous, but the voltage recovery is slow, about an hour. When I do range calculations, I only wait about 30 Minutes to get the after voltage.

3. On-Charge. While a charging current is passing through the battery. Starts at whatever the voltage was when the charger is connected and increases to roughly 2.5 VPC (Volts per Cell - 45.0V for a 36V pack) when the legacy type chargers shut off. Modern chargers that us dV/dT (Change in Voltage over change in Time) technology will shut off when the On-Charge voltage ceases to climb (or climbs less than a predetermined amount over a specified time) and will climb above 2.5VPC.

[toothninja]

JohnnieB, your knowledge is much appreciated! Thanks!!

[mutant]

i once told jonnieB
i needed to pick his brain about something-

he said,ok-go ahead....

i had to get stitches................that mans brain is pretty sharp!!!