06 EZGO TXT No Movement. Elec problem

[jason1980]

I bought this 06 txt recently. Guy says it would randomly quit running. One time His son was driving it and it quit. But reverse worked so they drove it back home in reverse. Then next time they got on it worked fine. Then last time no movement at all. Been sitting 3 years. I picked it up at a good deal, well maybe depending on what's wrong.
The batteries were shot so I just put 6 new ones in it. It's 36 volt. No run/tow switch so I think it is what's called Series. I'm trying to learn. The battery cables were corroding so I replaced them all and all the motor cables to 4 gauge. There is no reed switch at the charger. Looks like it was taken out at the factory from what I've read.
I'm great at mechanical stuff but no great at electrical. Can anyone please help me try to figure this out? I took the F/R off and it doesn't look like it's been hot. I just don't know exactly how to isolate what gone bad here. I don't want to spend tons of money replacing the wrong parts that are actually good.
Thanks for any help. It's much appreciated. Jason

[yurtle]

The good news is a Series controller doesn't know whether it's going forward or reverse, except for the half-speed reverse, if enabled. In other words, your controller is fine, if it will go at all. Try tightening the FNR cam nut, Your motor also doesn't care which way it goes, unless the brushes are on their last leg. I'm guessing FNR.

Another weak point is a 4 wire Molex connector (plug) that can be traced from the throttle box to the wiring harness, usually located between the FNR and controller. This wouldn't cause reverse only, but would cause intermittent failure in either direction. It can simply be cleaned with contact cleaner, and if it's a real pain, cut it off and butt splice or solder the 4 wires.

[jason1980]

Hey Guys. I'm new here so take it easy on me. The driving in reverse is a story from the previous owner. He was saying it was acting up. I have yet to make this baby move. I've taken the FR off and looks ok. Not like it's been hot. Rotates well and all. Pedal clicks when pressed. With switch on solenoid clicks when pedal pressed.
I can cut the molecules connector out and hardwire those wires. Is that what you suggest? Does anyone have a step by step check to checkout the controller, solenoid, F/R switch, Motor with a bolt meter? I don't know what else to do but start from the beginning.
Thank you for the help!!
Stranded in NC
Jason

[kgsc]

Okay first off. Get the rear wheels off the ground so it doesn't run over you if it starts. Now. With the key on, fnr in f or r does the solenoid click when the go pedal is pushed?

[yurtle]

I'd wiggle or unplug the Molex plug. Then tighten the the FNR cam nut, and see if that works,

[nickdalzell1]

Is this a series or a PDS? i wasn't aware they still made series in '06?

The older series carts had a shifter between your legs, and it had a rod that connects to a 'button' that rotates against a board of contacts. and they fail often, and don't always give visual confirmation. in that case either contact board is melted or button springs aren't working good enough to allow contact.

a PDS has a rocker switch next to the key switch. you would need to do a continuity test to determine if it's bad. or simply swap a known good one in its place and see if it works then.

[jason1980]

Just got home from work.
Ok. I tightened the cam nut but no change. It pretty tight now. Hard to turn the F/R lever.
Played with the molex but no change. Unplugged it a few times.
When key on, I press pedal solenoid does click

[jason1980]

I've got 40.4 volts on batt pack with voltmeter.

[jason1980]

Nick
I think its Series
But I only know enough to be dangerous. Lol
F/R lever middle under seat.
Linkage goes to F/R switch on passenger side.

[jason1980]

Khsc or yurdle what would I check next? I hate to have to take this cart somewhere. I hope I can trace down the problem. Thank you all!