Bad Voltage Regulator

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

I use a simple test light. One with a regular bulb and not a LED. They are cheap.
Remove the negative battery cable and connect the test light between the negative cable and the negative battery post. If you got a short it will light that test light. If you turn the headlights on you will not hurt a think but the old test light with lite up
I doubt you got a short. Have someone test the battery with an old fashioned hydrometer. I trust one of these better than the expensive gadgets they use today that takes forever. Walmart will test your battery with one of those expensive gadgets and they don't charge you anything if you can't find anyone with a hydrometer or want to buy one.

That does work well for a short or a high draw. I do the same thing with a bulb if I keep popping fuses for no apparent reason until I can find the culprit However, for a parasitic draw issue, if it's only a small draw (less than ~100mA) it will still kill a battery in a week (or less, depending on the battery size) without being used, but may not be "enough" draw to light up a test light. At least not enough to see it glow. This is one of those times that being able to see precise measurements displayed on the meter is important. Any basic meter will work.

And for when it's one of those incredibly difficult to diagnose or intermittent deals, that's when I break out my fluke 287.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by CP241

That does work well for a short or a high draw. I do the same thing with a bulb if I keep popping fuses for no apparent reason until I can find the culprit However, for a parasitic draw issue, if it's only a small draw (less than ~100mA) it will still kill a battery in a week (or less, depending on the battery size) without being used, but may not be "enough" draw to light up a test light. At least not enough to see it glow. This is one of those times that being able to see precise measurements displayed on the meter is important. Any basic meter will work.

And for when it's one of those incredibly difficult to diagnose or intermittent deals, that's when I break out my fluke 287.

This is a golf cart and my test always works. Not a lot on one of these than can kill a battery. A late model auto or truck yes your way is the best. He could just leave the cable off and see if it goes dead. This is why I work on golf carts now and leave those expensive vehicles to the experts which ain't me

[Fairtax4me]

The radio would normally have some power draw when it’s off, but it should take weeks or possibly months depending on the radio to draw the battery down enough to cause a problem. Did the battery draw problem start immediately after installing the radio?

The voltage regulator on these works entirely differently than the one on your buddies antique car, and when the cart is off the regulator should not be connected to the battery at all, unless someone has disconnected it and hooked it back up the wrong way.
Check inside the black box, look for the red wire from the regulator, it should be connected to the solenoid on the same large post with the White cable as seen in the diagram here:


When it is hooked up the correct way, the voltage regulator is not even connected to the battery unless the cart is running.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

This is a golf cart and my test always works. Not a lot on one of these than can kill a battery. A late model auto or truck yes your way is the best. He could just leave the cable off and see if it goes dead. This is why I work on golf carts now and leave those expensive vehicles to the experts which ain't me

No worries old timer only reason I suggest a meter for this is because in the first post he stated it a slow drain. I have a "fancy" snap-on test light and even on that, low mA draws barely light it up at all. If you have a well-lit shop or working in the daylight, you probably wouldn't even see it glow.

That's okay, when you have a problem with your fancy new Tacoma, I'll still help you and you know where to find me.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by CP241

No worries old timer only reason I suggest a meter for this is because in the first post he stated it a slow drain. I have a "fancy" snap-on test light and even on that, low mA draws barely light it up at all. If you have a well-lit shop or working in the daylight, you probably wouldn't even see it glow.

That's okay, when you have a problem with your fancy new Tacoma, I'll still help you and you know where to find me.

I doubt I will ever have issues with the Toyota. I got 2.5 years of warranty left. When that's up I will trade again if I am still around
I have had it 9 months and put only 1800 miles on it. Not far from my house to the shop and that's the only place I go. You said Toyota was a bad word here anyway
I will call you if my son has problems with his though.
I am going electric on golf carts . I bought two in the last few months. One is going to my granddaughter. The other one I will use at my shop. Still working on the gas one you sent me the parts for. Slow going here but still going

[CP241]

Lol

Toyota does appear to be a bad word here. But so is chevy. And so is ford...

I'm sure you'll be fine in 2.5 years. Unless you fall off the roof

[Kudzupatch]

Going to 'glom' onto this post rater than start another one since I am having a similar problem

My Bobcat/2100 (key start) has started pulling the battery down overnight. No radio or accessories. Nothing has changed. New battery I assume is good.

Problem is rather intermittent and I assumed a charging issue. Connected my meter and charging is working. 14+ volts 95% of the time. Sometimes it doesn't start charging. Knock it out of gear, rev the engine and away it goes. But even on the days it does work SOMETIMES the next morning the battery is down to 5-6 volts. But not every morning. That is the confusing part.

Have not started checking yet. Thought I would ask if anyone has an idea what it might be causing this?

Yes I will check the draw but just don't have the time right now.

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by Kudzupatch

New battery I assume is good.

Never assume new is good. Get it load tested. Could just be a bad cell.

Otherwise just follow the previous instructions regarding measuring current draw and disconnecting stuff. Easy start to this is pulling fuses to see if any draw stops, If so, then follow that circuit to find the culprit.

Is this machine diesel by any chance? If so check battery and ground connections. If you jump start it when the battery is flat, It would run all day until it is stopped, then a poor connection will stop it starting next day, plus prevent the alternator charging the battery. ( just a thought )