1995 Club Car DS Potentiometer

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by scottyb

How do you get that? 1995 week 30 ?

The serial number 9530 means it was built on the 30th week. In 1995, they used a 0-5k V-glide (multi-step potentiometer) until week 16. After week 15 they went to a pot-box with a 5k-0 signal and used the 1204-410 controller, the same controller they used until 2004 when the series car stopped being produced.

[Aflyer]

Roxyflash,
The needle sweep was very clean, not notchy or jumping up and down.

The cart does have a controller, it is not an early 1995, but it is just into the upgrade which included the continuously variable potentiometer.

The owner is now considering trains it for something newer so we will see what happens after another battery charge cycle.

[scottyb]

nvrmnd

[Sergio]

I think the way you reported your resistance readings was confusing.

When measuring the resistance from the Green to the Yellow wire, with the FNR in forward, you will have a 5kΩ-0Ω range.

Your reading of 10kΩ-5kΩ would be correct if the FNR was on reverse.

If the FNR was not on reverse, Your micro-switch #3 failed and You can just unplug the Green and White wires from the micro-switch and jump them together.

I agree with everyone else that the shudder is typically related to a bad battery.

[Aflyer]

Hello all,
I am happy to report that you all were right with the shuddering problem being the battery's. When I checked the date codes, they were K9. Both the owner and I thought he replaced them a couple years ago, LOL.

We installed the new ones yesterday and the cart "seems" to run fine. By that I mean the shuddering is gone, and acceleration is good. We only ran it up and down the driveway one time.

Didn't recheck the potentiometer, or check the speed, as we ran out of time. Will do more testing sometime over the next couple of days, and report back.

Thank you all for your help,
gkcooper

[mrgolf]

Be sure you give those batteries a good charge before you use the cart, and keep it on charger when not in use.

[Aflyer]

Update on the neighbors cart.

It runs good, no shuddering and he says speed is back to normal. He has charged it three times since new battery install. Not much driving time on new batteries.

Problem now is the battery warning light is staying on all the time. He also said he could hear a solenoid clicking noise when he went in the garage, so he disconnected the pack negative cable.

I will go check it out in a little while, and provide an update.

According to the manual, the clicking solenoid could be a bad adjustment on the accelerator?? What is the best way to adjust without having the special tool?

Thank you,
George

[Sergio]

I think the relay sound Your neighbor heard may be coming from the charger.

Unless the key switch was ON, the micro-switch in the pedal assembly would not do anything.

A charging problem also explains why the battery warning light would be ON.

The first thing to try is to clean the DC plug on the cart.

Unplug the charger AC cord from the wall.

Spray WD40 on the charger receptacle and work the charger DC plug in and out several times to clean up any corrosion.

Also make sure he has adequate AC power to the charger and not a cheap extension cord.

[Aflyer]

Sergio,
Thanks for the quick response.
Actually he had left the key on, and I guess he might just do that a lot.
I will check the DC plug contacts, and clean them up as you suggested.
No extension cord involved, the charger is direct into the wall, but I doubt that it is a dedicated circuit.

More to follow, after I have been up there.

[Aflyer]

Round three,
I have just finished adjusting the go pedal as best I could without the tools and the calibration test module discussed in the manual.

Micro switch clicks at about 4.5 inches from the floor, as indicated in the manual, which feels ok to drive.

Took it for a drive with two people, and pack voltage at 52. We hit 12 -13 MPH on the flat, and down to 10 - 11 on a grade, and 7 - 8 on his steep driveway. Should the MPH vary that much or is that indicative of a problem?

From what I can see the Potentiometer is working ok.

Cleaned up the charger cable and receptacle although it all looked fine.

Car is back on charger and will test some more in a couple days.

Any comments or thoughts on this last round of tests appreciated.

Thank you,
gkcooper