I want my lights to turn off when my key switch is off.

[EC-Cartman]

Originally Posted by wizardket

It will not matter as it is just a switch. However B for blue? B for B+ ?. The second set is
B1 - Batt + and L for Lights. If you want all accessories from it, then L goes to you light switch and other accessories. This line should be fused back at the battery also.

Note that the second position on the switch will have the accessories on, not first position.

[Superman51]

Thanks guys, ya'll are AWESOME! BTW, what do ya'll think about about just splicing my negatives from 3 sets of lights into 1 wire going back to the battery negative? It would be a 18g but I didn't think it would matter. I'm sure the positive does so I'm just going to keep each positive wire separate headed back to the source.

[EC-Cartman]

Originally Posted by Superman51

Thanks guys, ya'll are AWESOME! BTW, what do ya'll think about about just splicing my negatives from 3 sets of lights into 1 wire going back to the battery negative? It would be a 18g but I didn't think it would matter. I'm sure the positive does so I'm just going to keep each positive wire separate headed back to the source.

16-14g would be safer & yes the negative is just as important as the positives. Both need to be able to handle the load from start to finish

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by Superman51

Dear Professor Gman,
I have submitted my paper. Please let me know what my grade is.

For understanding the 12v concept and incorporating a switch correctly, I give you an A.

For failing to show an inline fuse close to the battery positive, I give you an F.

Averages out to a C.

Keep in mind, the more load you put on that switch (more lights, stereo, neon...) the faster it will fail. If you start building this 12v system up beyond headlights and tail lights, you would need some relays and a terminal block.

[kgsc]

Yeah, what GMan said.. Except I would do the relay now AND you REALLY need heavier wire. If you put a pair of 55watt lights on the cart, they are going to pull 110 watts, close to 10amps and IMO 18ga isn't big enough. I usually run 14 or 12, I know, overkill but I like cool wires. As for the relay, it is less than $5 and that is much cheaper than that ign switch

my 2 cents

[Superman51]

Thanks again for all the input guys! I have a fuse in the system…..I just forgot to draw it in there. I’m using a light kit that came with all the wires needed. I am only running 1 set (2 lights) off of the key switch. They are the smaller fog/running lights. My other off road light will be wired directly to the battery and to a toggle switch that cannot be easily bumped on. I’ll try to finish it up today and get some pictures.

[Superman51]

Alright, thanks again for all the help. I put up a few pictures of my lights. PLEASE don’t knock me for all the wires . I’m going to clean it up with some flex tubing and make it nice and pretty, I just wanted to make sure they were all working.

I have the two small fog lights mounted under the body. Since I mainly use my cart for hunting, I wanted some low light to creep around in and not spook everything. I point these bad boys straight at the ground but still have enough light to see where I’m going. They are operated by the red toggle switch by the keys. If I am using my cart for something else and are running the fog lights during the day, they are wired so when I turn the cart off the lights will go off. Even if the toggle switch remained on.

The big rally lights are mounted flush with my front basket and are 55W each. These are wired directly to my battery and are the toggle switches next to my 12V outlet. If I need some serious light in the woods as night, I can just fire these bad boys up. This is mainly because I’m scared of the dark! Thanks again.

[fishb8]

Looks good Superman. Love the basket up front.