2008 2+2 Shuttle problem turning on

[PinballDad]

Originally Posted by Scott H.

Merry Christmas to you too!

Check this thread on how to test your switch.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ey-switch.html

-Scott H.

Does it matter how to test the switch if I have a 48v system? That article is for 36v systems. I am thinking it would not matter but would prefer an expert confirm.

Went back out today..cold but daytime easier to work in the garage. I checked all fuses and are ok. My brake lights and horn do not work so I was hoping those two issues were fuse related. Back to more important things, like getting the cart to move. It still won't move. I took a plastic cover off that the On/Tow switch is mounted to (under the pass.s seat). Under it is the solenoid. It clicks when the key is in forward or reverse. I have 12v coming off the lug that ties to the battery packm no voltage on the other large solenoid lug until the key is turned on. Now there are smaller lugs I did not test on the solenoid. I just probed the two lugs that have the heavy gauge red wire on them. One goes to the bat pack and one to the aluminum big thingy...lol..controller? I am new at this. Anyway, Tomorrow I'll poke around some more. When I bought it weeks ago it worked half the time. Only change since then is temperature outside, it is much colder. I will place a 1500 watt elect space heater pointing at the controller tomorrow for an hour. If this thing moves then temperature must have something to do iwth it. I understand I still may have bad parts somewhere but if it works in warm weather then that can buy me some time before investing in parts right away.

Thanks all and Happy New Year!

[PinballDad]

***Update*** Ok, messed with this thing today in the garage today...still cold outside. Here is what happened. I first cleaned all the connections...checked all fuses again. Turned key and no go. Flipped the Tow switch back and forth and hear no click...ever. Checked th voltage at bat pack negative and solenoid positive. Getting 49,6 volts..to both sides when key is turned to forward or reverse...solenoid clicks. I was frustrated and left the key in the Forward position for 2-3 minutes. When I came back I turned it off and then back on real quick to forward...the friggin cart moved. I turned it off for 20 seconds and then back on...no movement. I then left it in the On-Forward position again for 2-3 minutes and then quickly turned it off and then back on...the cart moved when I pressed the pedal...strange. I drove around forward and reverse for a half hour with no issues. Turn the key off and then back on...no movement. It is almost like when I leave the key in the On position (although it will not move) it is charging something up...like a capacitor! Then when I flip the key off and back on quick there is something charged up and the cart moves. I repeated this test like 15 times. 14 out of 15 times it worked if I first left the key in the On position for 2-3 minutes, then shut off and then back on quickly.

Ok you guru experts. Anybody have any ideas? I am hoping I get lucky here and someone knows how to make sense of this weird behavior for my cart:)

Happy New Year!

[JohnnieB]

I'm certainly not an expert or guru on an RXV, and have no desire to become one, but I might be able to help you verify the Keyswitch/direction selector is telling the controller what to do or not.

From what I can decipher, the Keyswitch does three things. Tells the controller to turn on and tells it to either go into forward mode or reverse mode.

Somewhere there is a 4 pin plug that connects the Keyswitch to the wiring harness and I suspect it would be in the general vicinity of the Keyswitch.
That plug has four wires coupled through it:
Pin-A = Yellow
Pin-B = Red
Pin-C = White
Pin-D = Green

I'll call the 48V battery pack's full voltage B+.
With your DVM's negative test lead connected to the battery packs main negative terminal and the DVM's positive test lead touching Pin-A (Yellow wire), you should read B+ when Run/Tow is in RUN.

When Keyswitch is in any position except OFF, you should have B+ on Pin-B (Red wire)

There are two possibilities for the other two wires.

Possibility-1:
When Keyswitch is in Forward, you should have B+ on either Pin-C (White wire) or Pin-D (Green wire), but only one of the two.
When Keyswitch is in Reverse, the voltage on the White and Green wires is the opposite of forward.

Possibility-2:
When in Forward, either one or both of White and Green wires will have B+
In Reverse, it will be the opposite of Forward.


--------------
Moisture or corrosion may be creating highly resistive contacts in Keyswitch and it may be taking some time to build up the voltage needed to change the state of the inputs on the controller, but once they are toggled, they stay toggled and everything works until the Keyswitch is turned to a different position.
Of course, I am just guessing, but it is a guess based on 50+ years of experience working on electrical gadgets.

[PinballDad]

:(:(:( I sure wish someone could help me here:( I mean my cart indeed will run every time I leave the key in the R or F position for about a minute or two, then quick turn off and back to either R or F and I can drive all day (even in this Michigan cold) and not have a problem until I turn the key to the off position. Then I have to rinse & repeat the procedure and I am good to go again as long as I do not toggle the key to off (reverse and forward countless times and the cart still moves everytime). It seems like with the key on something is pre-charging for when the next time I go to key "Off" position and then back to "On".

Has anybody ever heard of this or have an idea of where I should look? Please:)

[PinballDad]

Nobody eh? What a bummer for me:(:(:( I guess I'll call a local EZGO center near me in Michigan. Hopefully I won't get raped and the work/parts needed is reasonable!

Hard to believe nobody has seen this symptom in an electirc cart before me???

[kgsc]

Unfortunately there just isn't that much information going around about the RXV carts yet, they are too new. There is some kind of circuit that it realizes that it is just sitting and it will drop the solenoid out. However it should reengage when you step on the accel pedal. The fact it works fine until that circuit kicks in should at least be a start.

[rib33024]

PBD what ever happen when you did the test that JohnnieB posted, ??

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I'm certainly not an expert or guru on an RXV, and have no desire to become one, but I might be able to help you verify the Keyswitch/direction selector is telling the controller what to do or not.

From what I can decipher, the Keyswitch does three things. Tells the controller to turn on and tells it to either go into forward mode or reverse mode.

Somewhere there is a 4 pin plug that connects the Keyswitch to the wiring harness and I suspect it would be in the general vicinity of the Keyswitch.
That plug has four wires coupled through it:
Pin-A = Yellow
Pin-B = Red
Pin-C = White
Pin-D = Green

I'll call the 48V battery pack's full voltage B+.
With your DVM's negative test lead connected to the battery packs main negative terminal and the DVM's positive test lead touching Pin-A (Yellow wire), you should read B+ when Run/Tow is in RUN.

When Keyswitch is in any position except OFF, you should have B+ on Pin-B (Red wire)

There are two possibilities for the other two wires.

Possibility-1:
When Keyswitch is in Forward, you should have B+ on either Pin-C (White wire) or Pin-D (Green wire), but only one of the two.
When Keyswitch is in Reverse, the voltage on the White and Green wires is the opposite of forward.

Possibility-2:
When in Forward, either one or both of White and Green wires will have B+
In Reverse, it will be the opposite of Forward.


--------------
Moisture or corrosion may be creating highly resistive contacts in Keyswitch and it may be taking some time to build up the voltage needed to change the state of the inputs on the controller, but once they are toggled, they stay toggled and everything works until the Keyswitch is turned to a different position.
Of course, I am just guessing, but it is a guess based on 50+ years of experience working on electrical gadgets.

[PinballDad]

Passed all tests. Cart still only works half the time I turn the key on. Only good thing is within 2-3 minutes of turning the key on and off I usually end up hitting an operation ok and the cart will move when I hit the pedal. As long as I do not turn the key off (leave in R or N or F) it will move when I hit the pedal...even 30 minutes later. Have checked every connection and even took the motor out to bench examine it (not test because no bearing on one end). Have not taken the controller out since I would not know how to test it anyway. Still hoping for an easy solution but not very hopeful:(:(:(