Western EZ-Go Sepex 1264-5404

[jesseasi]

Working on a western golf cart. It has a Sepex 1264-5404 controller.

Changed the batteries and it won't engage / drive. All accessories work.

The Controller is flashing 2 5. Looking online I have found that this may refer to pin 26 needing 5volt. But there is no pin26 on this controller...

Solenoid does not click either - could be an issue there?

[JohnnieB]

Here is a schematic for a sepex drive using a Curtis 1264 controller and a service manual for the EZGO ST400 Utility Vehicle that it is installed in.

The troubleshooting stuff in section "F" should apply to your Western cart.

[kgsc]

2,5 is an issue with the aux circuit on a 1268 Curtis. Could be a bad brake or walk away relay.

[jesseasi]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Here is a schematic for a sepex drive using a Curtis 1264 controller and a service manual for the EZGO ST400 Utility Vehicle that it is installed in.

The troubleshooting stuff in section "F" should apply to your Western cart.

Oh thank you so much for responding - even on Christmas Day. Merry Christmas.

Per the manual - (I found you had posted this same manual for another user a while back). - Fault Code 2,5

2 - 5 Volts direct current fault Vehicle will not run • Replace controller

I hope I don't need to replace the controller.

I don't hear any clicking on the solenoid - so I was thinking maybe that had gone bad. I get 58v on the main posts and 12v on the smaller posts. Maybe these are not the correct voltages? Maybe 12v is not enough to activate?

I am sending 58volts through the cart now (48v originally) - I hope this over voltage is not the issue. I have had had no issues with other carts sending this amount of voltage on a fully charged battery pack.

[JohnnieB]

With Charger disconnected from cart, Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch On and F/R in either F or R, you should have 58V on both of the solenoid's small terminals. If you have that, press the pedal and the blue wire ought to drop to about 0V and the solenoid ought to click.

You said you only had 12V on the solenoid's small posts, so most of the 58V is being lost somewhere.

The starting point for the 58V to the solenoid coil is the reed switch (or whatever Western uses for a charger interlock) in the charge receptacle. If it is there, check if 58V is getting to Pin-2, if not check the Run/Tow switch.

It looks like the "logic" voltage from Pin-2 has to go through the F/R switch and the keyswitch to get the the pedal switch, so trace them out on the schematic.

Attached is a drawing showing the voltage paths through a 1206MX (PDS) and I suspect Curtis didn't re-invent the wheel when they designed the 1264, so the routing ought to be similar.

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Get the solenoid clicking, or at least 58V on the yellow wire and we can go from there.

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BTW: Alltrax makes a user programmable replacement for it --- XCT48400-1264

[jesseasi]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

With Charger disconnected from cart, Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch On and F/R in either F or R, you should have 58V on both of the solenoid's small terminals. If you have that, press the pedal and the blue wire ought to drop to about 0V and the solenoid ought to click.

You said you only had 12V on the solenoid's small posts, so most of the 58V is being lost somewhere.

The starting point for the 58V to the solenoid coil is the reed switch (or whatever Western uses for a charger interlock) in the charge receptacle. If it is there, check if 58V is getting to Pin-2, if not check the Run/Tow switch.

It looks like the "logic" voltage from Pin-2 has to go through the F/R switch and the keyswitch to get the the pedal switch, so trace them out on the schematic.

Attached is a drawing showing the voltage paths through a 1206MX (PDS) and I suspect Curtis didn't re-invent the wheel when they designed the 1264, so the routing ought to be similar.

------------
Get the solenoid clicking, or at least 58V on the yellow wire and we can go from there.

------------
BTW: Alltrax makes a user programmable replacement for it --- XCT48400-1264

Not sure how we lost the 58v on the solenoid. Maybe something got confused with the 12v side (accessories)

Should the cart frame be grounded? Realize the solenoid only has + voltage connected to it. Seems like there should be a ground?

Just trying to figure out why or how the accessory 12V is being sent to the solenoid.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jesseasi

1. Not sure how we lost the 58v on the solenoid.

2. Maybe something got confused with the 12v side (accessories)

3. Should the cart frame be grounded?

4. Realize the solenoid only has + voltage connected to it. Seems like there should be a ground?

5. Just trying to figure out why or how the accessory 12V is being sent to the solenoid.

1. The 58V goes through several sets of switch contact, many wires with connections at each end, plus often traveling through runs on the PCBs inside the controller as well as multiple plug/jack interfaces and any one of the two dozen or so items listed could be have enough resistance to drop 46V (58 - 12 = 46).

2. & 5. The accessory voltage getting to the solenoid coil is highly unlikely. To prove/disprove, disable the 12V source and check if 12V is still present at solenoid coil.

3. No. Everything uses two wires rather than using frame/body as return path.

4. Before pedal is pushed, both of the solenoid's small terminals will have 58V. The 58V on the blue wire is feed-though from the yellow wire through the coil. The main coil driver inside the controller connects the blue wire to B- when it is told to do so by closing the pedal switch contacts (Pushing pedal) and applying the 58V from Pin-6 to Pin-8 (or from Pin-8 to Pin-6 - I'm not sure with is source leg and which is switched leg).

[jesseasi]

Success.

So I discovered I made an assumption about the 12 Volt system that was wrong. When pulling the existing batteries - there was a bundle of smaller wires attached to the 1st positive of the battery pack. I assumed all of these were for the 12 volt accessories. (Lights, hood release, radio, etc). Also all these red wires went to a fuse box.



https://bluefininc-my.sharepoint.com...OS4ow?e=obDmdM

Only the 1st fuse on this block is 12 volt. All the rest of the fuses here should have the full battery pack power. Once I moved all these other circuits to the 58v side - everything works.

Thank you so much for all your help!!! Problem solved - golf cart is now converted to Lithium!

[JohnnieB]

Thanks for the feedback.

[jc_329]

Hi - I am having the exact same problem. Its been a few years since your post and the pic you attached with the wires to 12v vs 48v has expired. any chance you still have?

I have western/lido that i am converting to EcoBattery lithium (or trying)