77 two stroke internal starter help

[flashesbuck]

So what we have here is a 1977 3wheeler ezgo with the internal 2 stroke… ya shes a cutie. Everything looks really good actually but there some issues.
I have posted a ton of pics cuz I know there worth a 1000 words… ok so im almost positive the brushes are bad, take a look, how long do they need to be, these are about .514 in long, how long should they be?

Next, if the voltage regulator is bad, will the cart still run? Just not charge? I mean it should at least turn over right?... When we got the cart, the motor would not turn over, but the solenoid would click. But now we can’t get it to click anymore.

OK next…. I have seen the schematic posted on here, but its not the best…. On the forward reveres switch, A is power coming in then B goes to the condenser/points? C and D are forward and reveres starting windings? If these are the forward and reveres then only one should go hot at a time correct?

Next question can any one identify what brush is doing what on the starter generator…. This will help me trace some wires and get stuff working right.
I know I got some tuff question here but any help would be greatly appreciated

[flashesbuck]

bump.... no one can help me here?

[ruredy]

About all I can do is agree with you on the conditions of the brushes. I think it was MB523 that had a cart like that, he got the wiring diagram for that in the tech section I put up. shoot him a pm, maybe he can help. He doesn't come by very often anymore.

[mb523]

Hey flashesbuck,

Those brushes do look short to me. A new set will help for sure. As for the voltage regulator, It can be replaced with a new, solid state style regulator. There is a blocking relay connected to the original voltage regulator which prevents the commuter in the starter/gen from exploding due to reversed polarity if someone switched the F/R switch while it is running. This can be easily bypassed but caution has to be taken when switching from forward to reverse and back again (make sure engine has COMPLETELY stopped spinning before starting again).

We will start with what the original wiring should look like:



And now the directions to replace the voltage regulator:

The new voltage regulator has three terminals labeled D+, DF and D-.
The old voltage regulator has four terminals labelled F, E, B and A.
Here's how to connect the new regulator:
1) Yellow wire from F now connects to DF on the new regulator. This is the field circuit.
2) Black ground wire from E now connects to D-. Mine was grounded to the engine case.
3) Three wires from the A terminal connect to the D+ on the new regulator. Two of these are red and the third is a short wire that connects to the blocking relay. If you're removing the blocking relay, then this third wire can be ignored (thrown out with the blocking relay).
4) Remove the black wire from the B terminal up to the ignition switch it's no longer needed.

Assuming you want to get rid of the blocking relay also:
1)Cut the red/black wire and the yellow wire to the relay, and then just splice the two ends together. This yellow wire should come from the coil, not the F/R switch.

This is my new voltage regulator wired in:



Hope this helps a little! Feel free to ask questions as well.

[sccowboy]

From the pics it looks like the springs are bottomed out which would keep them from making complete contact. Fortunately brushes are cheap. I would definitely go thru all the wiring and make sure it is good to go. It will help you to not only understand the workings of your cart, but will make things a whole lot easier to trouble shoot down the road. Good luck!