Key switch wiring

[ScottHeath]

What do I have wrong on here. Thought I went screw by screw doing the swap but I must have something backwards. Pops the fuse as soon as I turn key. Cant find a good picture or diagram online.

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[Fairtax4me]

Looks right to me.
Where did you get the switch? I don't see any labels on any of those terminals. Some of the aftermarket switches are junk and can cause that problem.

Also Turn the black wires so they're not touching the Blue wire terminal.
Don't let wires touch other terminals at all if you can avoid it. Turn them so they're not touching. Wires touching will eventually rub through, or they can get nicked or cut when you tighten them down and cause a short.

[ScottHeath]

It is a club car switch I bought at a dealership. Moved the wires so nothing is touching. I do not see any cracked or frayed wires. Any other ideas. Obviously have something touching somewhere.

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[ScottHeath]

Found this diagram which says I have them hooked correctly. It does not pop with just red and black connected and I have 12v then.

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[ScottHeath]

Starting to believe I bought a faulty key switch.

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[Fairtax4me]

When you took the dash panel out did you have to pull any of the wires to get them out far enough to work?
Black is ground, white is kill wire from the FnR micro switch, white/black stripe is kill wire from the ignition coil.
Blue (one of them anyway) goes to your solenoid to supply 12v.

Remove all the wires from the switch, use a continuity test function of a multimeter set to beep for continuity. Connect one probe to either Terminal 1 or 2 , the other probe to M+ or M- terminal. Attach them firmly screw them on, or use alligator clips. Turn the key switch slowly and listen for the meter to beep. If you ever get continuity between the two and the meter beeps, the switch is faulty.

You can also connect only the red and blue wires to the switch (leave off black and white wires). See if the fuse still pops. If it still does then there is a short in the blue wire somewhere. If not, key switch is faulty.

[KRAZYMATT]

Scott. Remove the wires and send me a picture of the letters stamped in the plastic at the middle of the switch.

“B” should be the +12v from your battery (red wire)
“A” should be the switched +12v out to you solenoid (blue wire)
“M+” should be the ignition kill signal wire from your micro switches and motor (white & black)
“M-“ should be the switches ground wire to kill the engine when key switch is in off position (black)

Like fair tax mentioned, take a meter and put it to continuity.

The pair that beeps when key is in “off position” is the magneto/coil/ignition/kill circuit - black wire (ground) and white and black wire (coil & microswitches)

The pair that beeps when key is in the “on position” is the start/run circuit - red wire (battery +12v) and the blue wire (solenoid)

They should be hooked to the terminals marked above but not absolute big deal as long as you have the pairs hooked to the correct contacts according to switch position- ie b&a together and m- & m+ together. If not depending which is hooked to which you will have a dead short either right away or when you turn the key switch on.

[KRAZYMATT]

These terminals might not be in same position as your switch just make sure you have on the proper letters! Also note you do not have a 5th pole “s” that’s for a 3 position off-on-start switch. The 5th pole would go to an electric starter. Your cart uses starter/generator so it is energized via the solenoid- which should be the blue wire on The “a” terminal of the switch.

[ScottHeath]

Turns out the new key switch I bought must be faulty. Bought another and no more blown fuses. It then decided to throw me another curve and not start in F. Started in R and in maintenance mode in N. Yellow knob on FNR switch was worn not engaging microswitch. Replaced and slight cable adjustment and Im back in action. Thanks for your help.

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[KRAZYMATT]

Sweet!