Cart stopped running cold turkey.

[BrownParticles]

I did some tests. I jumped the yellow solenoid wire to the B- on the controller and that caused for the solenoid to now click. I jumped the B- to the M- contacts on the controller and the cart would not move or do anything different. The resistance between port two and three on the controller yielded 5.65-1.04K oms (rest to depressed)? Port 1 of the controller yielded 50.1v with the key on, cart in gear, and pedal depressed. What does this mean?

I know I created some sparks prior to doing these tests and I have a feeling that may have fried some components. I tried looking for fuses but nothing other than the fuses for headlights, overhead console, and charging. The on board computer's label has a printing "FUSED" meaning something that I don't know. Based on these tests, I think I have more than one broken component, but that's just a wild guess.

[BrownParticles]

I would also like to add that there were 3 adults riding in this thing on somewhat hilly roads. My brother told me that he smelled something burning, like grinding discs, before the motor quit. The resistor the jumps the two larger posts has burnt the heat shrink around it to be black in color. I don't know if this is normal or not.

[mrgolf]

Looking back at the first photos you posted. The battery cables look like they really need to be removed and cleaned good.You may not be getting a good enough connection to carry the amps to make the cart run.

If after cleaning them the cart still does not run I would try to find a controller to try.

[BrownParticles]

I have already wire brushed and baking soda cleaned all batteries and terminals. If I had to jump the yellow wire on solenoid, what does that indicate? Where can I find a controller to "try."

[mrgolf]

Does your cart have two solenoid? If not I'm thinking the smell was the controller.

[BrownParticles]

Cart has only one solenoid. I did the controller test, jumping B- to M-, and the cart didn't run. Shouldn't it have?

[Epb]

Did you leave the yellow jumper connected? You need to since that tests shows the obc was locking you out. Replace that resistor thats toast.
Your throttle is working=good
Voltage = good
If yellow jumper left on and u did b- to m- test then controller is bad.
Now lets see if others agree.....meanwhile see if you can find a controller to verify

[BrownParticles]

Originally Posted by Epb

Did you leave the yellow jumper connected? You need to since that tests shows the obc was locking you out. Replace that resistor thats toast.
Your throttle is working=good
Voltage = good
If yellow jumper left on and u did b- to m- test then controller is bad.
Now lets see if others agree.....meanwhile see if you can find a controller to verify

So. Jumper was connected when I connected B- to M-. If the yellow jumper is not connected to B-, the solenoid won't click. Connected or not, while B- is jumped to M-, nothing happens. So... i'll try hunting for a controller. Is the OBC broke too? Im thinking about just buying a controller since I have no idea of how I could get my hands on one just to test. I don't want to pay a shop $90 an hour just to test it for me..

[BrownParticles]

What are the chances of the motor being bad?

[CCFanatic]

Originally Posted by BrownParticles

So. Jumper was connected when I connected B- to M-. If the yellow jumper is not connected to B-, the solenoid won't click. Connected or not, while B- is jumped to M-, nothing happens. So... i'll try hunting for a controller. Is the OBC broke too? Im thinking about just buying a controller since I have no idea of how I could get my hands on one just to test. I don't want to pay a shop $90 an hour just to test it for me..

For $90, you can find a good used Curtis 1204 controller that will work in your cart