Cart stopped running cold turkey.

[Epb]

Obc may not be bad try the reset procedure in the stickies then try your solenoid actvation test again. If it doesnt click bad obc. You really dont need it, charging will require oversite and minor manipulation

[BrownParticles]

So controller is bad for sure?! I just want some confirmation before I go out and buy one.

I would like to cheap out on buying a new one, but at the same time I kind of want a good one. What's the cheapest high performing controller? I usually ride with four adults and in hilly terrain. I don't want the replacement to blow from overload.

[Epb]

I say its bad. One final check to validate motor isnt seized.
12v or 18v battery(s) or 12v battery charger as the power source
jack up cart
remove all motor connections and unhook battery pack
Put jumper s1 connected to a2 then use pos source to a1 and neg source to s2 if motor spins then its good.
I dont know any other tests u can do

[jjance]

Here's something that might help you.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YB52K62d_n8#t=276

[Sergio]

I am leaning more towards you fried your motor... Does that say 1,140 amp in the controller picture?

That jumping B- to M- does not really test much as there are so many other things that should have been tested for that test to have any meaning...


Since you already know the throttle resistance is somewhat OK, it should have go down to near 0Ω, make sure you use the 20kΩ setting in your meter and that the wires are not connected to the controller when you measure it.

You also verified that the controller gets pack voltage on pin #1 once you press the pedal. (microswitch is OK).

So next, Lift the cart, put FNR on forward.

Set your meter to 200vDC

Black probe on pack negative

Red probe on B+

You should have a little less than pack voltage (or nothing if your pre-charge resistor on the solenoid is burnt and your controller actually uses it to charge the capacitors).

Turn the key on.

Press the pedal, once the solenoid clicks, You should see pack voltage.

Continue to press the pedal all the way down, You should still see pack voltage.

If not, the solenoid contacts are gone, replace solenoid.

Next, Black probe on M- and Red probe on B+

Starting from pedal up, once solenoid clicks You should have near 0v.

Press the pedal, the voltage should go from 0v to near pack voltage with pedal fully depressed.

If all that works, either the FNR or the motor is burnt.

If the voltage does not change or you have no voltage reading, the controller is fried.

[BrownParticles]

I ordered a resistor for the solenoid and put that on.

I took all the connections off of the motor, jumped two of the terminals and hooked up 12v power to the other two per Epb's instructions. Motor ran.

I then proceeded to do Sergio's test.
Test one:
I probed pack neg and B+. Everything was as stated in the instruction, except for the solenoid clicking. Ever since I jumped those solenoid terminals and sparked something, the solenoid stopped clicking unless I jumped the yellow wire to B-. When jumped and doing the test, less than pack before solenoid, full voltage at click.

Test two:
Everything went according to instructions, except the part where I see 0v. At the time of the test, my pack voltage was 50.3v. at rest with key on and selector in forward, I read 47.4v. With the solenoid jumped to B- once again, at click I read 50.2v- not the 0v as stated in the instructions. At the halfway depressed area, voltage went up to 50.6v- above pack voltage. At fully depressed, I got pack voltage of 50.3v.

What do these readings mean? As for the solenoid not clicking. I followed the forum sticky and attempted to reset the OBC twice and the solenoid is still not clicking. My charger still charges, kicking on and off every now and then (like it should?). So I am guessing that: motor, microswitch, and throttle are ok? What do I do from here. And yes Sergio, the sticker does say 1,140amp.

I would like to thank everyone here on this forum for taking the time and helping me out in attempting to fix this cart. I greatly appreciate it.

[Sergio]

There are some contradictions in your tests, perhaps some variables changed between tests....

In post #21 You said:

I jumped the B- to the M- contacts on the controller and the cart would not move or do anything different

Based on that comment and the fact that applying voltage directly to the motor made it turn, the best conclusion is that you have a problem in the FNR switch not completing the high-current path.

Since that is a modified controller, and not knowing the FETs used in the controller, it is possible that if the high current path is not continuous, that your meter will not provide enough current to excite the FETs (turn them on), that may be why the second test showed strange results.

Sparking on the Big Posts of the solenoid would not have caused any problems, accidentally touching +48v to the small post yellow wire on the other hand would have fried the transistor inside the OBC that provides current path to negative.

Disconnect the yellow wire that goes from Solenoid to the OBC and run a new 18ga wire from the solenoid to B-. The only risk is that the cart would run even with the charger still plugged in.

Check or By-Pass the FNR to make sure it is working correctly.

[BrownParticles]

I got a permanent jumper from the yellow wire port on solenoid to B- on the controller. I then joined together the big cables on the FNR switch and it ran! I guess I'll buy the switch and hopefully that'll be the only problem.

I'd like to thank everyone who took the time to help me fix this issue. I greatly appreciate it.

I have one last problem that I don't think needs it's own thread. It's in regards to steering play. I was just wondering if it is something that can be adjusted or if I would be better off just buying a new rack- considering its only $75 on eBay for an OEM. Here's a video I captured of the steering rack play. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usbkSFP0UPE