DS is stopping

[CCFanatic]

If the harness was already installed, then it can not be a dropout issue. It must be a connection. I'm thinking at the F-R switch

[passthru]

I will look again for the sticker. Yeah I kinda figured that took the easy out of it. I also found a disconnected wire to the battery (amber light) indicator on that panel. Don't know what that may or may not do.

[CCFanatic]

Should effect the running, but I'd plug it in for peace if mind. Have you check the F-R connections at the toggle switch? Just pop the switch out with a small flathead screwdriver

[passthru]

Aq0232-177860

[passthru]

Originally Posted by CCFanatic

Should effect the running, but I'd plug it in for peace if mind. Have you check the F-R connections at the toggle switch? Just pop the switch out with a small flathead screwdriver

No and it's late and chilly. I will look at it tomorrow in the daylight. I appreciate the help thus far.

[CCFanatic]

Originally Posted by passthru

Aq0232-177860

Ok, you do have an 02 DS IQ. Since the harness was already installed, I'm willing to bet there is a faulty or corroded connection somewhere

[passthru]

Okay. I will look at the F/R switch tomorrow. I've checked the mcor connections and they seem sound. The same at the key switch, the solenoid by the controller and on the batteries, which have new upgraded cables. I was just thinking key switch as a couple times it shut down yesterday and didn't immediately reset upon releasing the pedal. I manipulated the key switch (ignition) several times and it came back to life, and once it did after I "thumped" the panel because manipulating the key didn't prove effective. The whole ignition manipulation, key thump may have done nothing and just coincidental to the unit reviving. The fact that this started after I installed wheel spacers on the back may be coincidental. The fact it started when it was relatively warm and then became less prevalent during the cooler part of my trip and started again on the last two warmer days of the trip may be irrelevant or coincidental. It may mean nothing that while investigating the problem after the original occurrence I found a battery hold down broken and one of the batteries setting at an angle in the batter tray (I repaired). However, I want to provide as much information as possible because I understand there is a vast resource of knowledge, information and experience here that will help me resolve this issue and I do appreciate that.

[passthru]

Well there were no obvious connection issues at the f/r switch and I couldn't get it to repeat the issue here on the street. I don't know if it's the smooth terrain, the cooler weather or . . . so I'm stuck.

[Sergio]

Those intermittent problems are definitely the worst ones to track down, and you know chances are it will fail when you least expect it.

As far as the "main dropout" problem:

The controller checks the voltage in the B+ against the voltage in the "logic" side (16 pin connector). If at any time the controller is driving the motor, it detects the voltage in the B+ is less than the voltage in the logic side, it assumes the "main solenoid" has disengaged and it throws a "main dropout" error.

There is a bug that exists in the IQ carts that sometimes when the controller is switching from Regen to drive, the logic side of the controller may appear to have a higher voltage than B+.

They added a diode in series with the power feed to the logic side of the controller to prevent the current from flowing in the opposite direction.

Regardless if the diode is in the harness or it was added as part of the "main dropout harness", the important thing is that the diode is working.

If the diode has failed in the closed position, it will be the same as not being there.

Check the diode in the harness to make sure it is working properly.

Also, those DC switches like the FNR switch are fast action switches and the spring mechanism inside can fail and cause intermittent issues.

The best way to test them is to by-pass them.

[passthru]

I understand that the f/r switch could fail. That however wouldn't explain the drop out of power to the unit as the light in the battery meter goes out when the failure occurs. As far as checking the diode I will do that in the morning. To me it's almost like the unit is losing power and then coming back on. As a matter of fact I can simulate the exact symptoms by shutting the key off when moving forward. I can see it just stop rolling if the solenoid sending power to the motor drops out but why does the light to the battery indicator go out as well?