No Foward

[yannicksjh]

I have a Club Car AQ0236 that no longer moves forward. Was working fine then died suddenly, hasn't moved forward since. I'm new here and have minimal knowledge on carts but will do my best to provide the most information in order to get help.

-Model # : AQ0236
-Toggle Forward/Reverse switch located lower right of the driver
-Tow/Run located under seat
-Controller is a Curtis PMC Model #1510-5201 (48v, 250amp)
-Batteries 6 months old and have full charge
-Rear cart wheels presently lifted off the ground for testing
-Selenoid clicks when in reverse and wheels turn
-Selenoid clicks when in forward then quickly clicks again and drops out (wheels just slightly move for 1/2 second forward as well)

I have a meter on hand for various testing.

Thanks in advance! Much appreciated!

[CCFanatic]

Sounds like it may be the "Solenoid Dropout" most prevalent on 2002 carts. Let's rule out the easy stuff out first. Pop the F-R toggle switch out and jump the orange and outermost driver's side wire ( forgot color ) and see if it will run

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Also, it has been known to be considered controller failure when a SepEx controller will only function in one direction

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by CCFanatic

Sounds like it may be the "Solenoid Dropout" most prevalent on 2002 carts. Let's rule out the easy stuff out first. Pop the F-R toggle switch out and jump the orange and outermost driver's side wire ( forgot color ) and see if it will run

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Also, it has been known to be considered controller failure when a SepEx controller will only function in one direction

Done, same results.

Thanks

[yannicksjh]

What would be the next thing to test?

Thanks again

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Does it operate fine in reverse? To bypass switch, jump orange to blue for reverse, orange to brown for forward.

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Does it operate fine in reverse? To bypass switch, jump orange to blue for reverse, orange to brown for forward.

Yes, works fine in reverse. When I jump ORANGE to BROWN I can hear the solenoid click then click again a second later and drop out.

Thanks

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Check the connections of the F1 and F2 wires on the motor. Make sure they're good and tight. Remove the black plastic controller cover and make sure these same two wires are connected to the controller as well. If everything looks good, unplug them from the controller and do a continuity test with your multimeter between F1 and F2 motor terminals. If you have continuity present, your motor is fine and your controller has failed. I changed one yesterday that was doing the exact same thing.

An easier way to do it if you don't have test eqipment is to swap the orange wire and blue wire on the controller. This will make the car run backwards in FWD and forwards in REV.... The purpose of this test is to confirm that the motor is indeed capable of running in reverse. After you've reversed these wires you should lose the ability to go forward. If this happens, change the controller.

[yannicksjh]

Great, I'll do that now and get back to you.

Appreciate the help so far

Thanks

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Check the connections of the F1 and F2 wires on the motor. Make sure they're good and tight. Remove the black plastic controller cover and make sure these same two wires are connected to the controller as well. If everything looks good, unplug them from the controller and do a continuity test with your multimeter between F1 and F2 motor terminals. If you have continuity present, your motor is fine and your controller has failed. I changed one yesterday that was doing the exact same thing.

An easier way to do it if you don't have test eqipment is to swap the orange wire and blue wire on the controller. This will make the car run backwards in FWD and forwards in REV.... The purpose of this test is to confirm that the motor is indeed capable of running in reverse. After you've reversed these wires you should lose the ability to go forward. If this happens, change the controller.

Great post DAWG

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Check the connections of the F1 and F2 wires on the motor. Make sure they're good and tight. Remove the black plastic controller cover and make sure these same two wires are connected to the controller as well. If everything looks good, unplug them from the controller and do a continuity test with your multimeter between F1 and F2 motor terminals. If you have continuity present, your motor is fine and your controller has failed. I changed one yesterday that was doing the exact same thing.

An easier way to do it if you don't have test eqipment is to swap the orange wire and blue wire on the controller. This will make the car run backwards in FWD and forwards in REV.... The purpose of this test is to confirm that the motor is indeed capable of running in reverse. After you've reversed these wires you should lose the ability to go forward. If this happens, change the controller.

Well, I'm pretty sure your right then. I first did the continuity test between the leads and there is. Then I swapped the wires like you said and the wheels were now moving forward (slower, as I think its only getting the reverse speed right?) and no more reverse now.

I guess that pretty much rules out a bad motor then and my next question would be do I need to get the exact same controller?

The one that's in there now is a Curtis PMC Model# 1510-5210 (48V, 250A), Is that the stock one?