Controller question

[scottyb]

huh? I always thought the control board regulated the output. Learn something new everyday.
You are saying jumpered chargers are safe to charge with then?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by scottyb

huh? I always thought the control board regulated the output. Learn something new everyday.
You are saying jumpered chargers are safe to charge with then?

No, not exactly. Problem is that you also by-pass the back-up timer on the control board and charger will run forever. If the amps do drop to trickle charge levels, 4A or less, it won't hurt the batteries, but if it stays up in the 6 to 10A range, they are going to gas like mad and you could expose the plates.

I think it is okay to use an automatic ferroresonant transformer type charger with a bypassed relay until you can get it fixed, but only for up to about 12-16 hours at a time and you should keep a close eye on the on-charge voltage (48V max) and water level.

I'm simply not sure if they didn't tweak the design a little when they added a control board to the original manual design.

[SCTurkeyHunter1]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

They relay on the control board has been bypassed.
In the bottom picture, the black wire from the fuse should go to the black cube on the PC board and then another wire from there to the timer. This looks like a real easy fix, where would be a good place to look for a board for this charger considering the age?
That means the Control Board is probably bad, so it might take a new control board will turn your charger back into an automatic one.

Unless that brownish colored thing bus between the two terminals on the ammeter, is a copper bus, it should be reading some amps, unless it is shorted internally. How would I check this? Just starting to learn how to use a multimeter here.
A replacement ammeter will fix that problem.
You've got the makings of an automatic charger. It just needs a couple parts to return it to its original glory.

Added: the reset button is a 50A circuit breaker, pushing the red button may not do anything unless the breaker had tripped.

Would this be all that I would need?

[SCTurkeyHunter1]

Originally Posted by SCTurkeyHunter1

Ok, Battery Pack measures 38.2 and all batteries measure 6.3

How do these measurments look, as far as do I need to get a pack now or do I have some time left?

[JohnnieB]

I'm not sure if you can find an exact replacement control board, but a part# 28668-G01 replaces both the control board and the mechanical timer. Here it is at one of the site sponsors, but you can search with the part# and might find it elsewhere.
https://www.3rsalesandservice.com/ca...vice/10892.htm

Also, they have an ammeter that should replace the ammeter on your charger. https://www.3rsalesandservice.com/ca...rvice/3454.htm
Unfortunately, the charger puts out more amps than the ammeter function of your multimeter is likely to be able measure. (Most DMM are limited to about 10A and the charger puts out 20A) However, we know the charger is putting out amps or it wouldn't be charging the batteries, so the charger's ammeter is most likely bad.

Those battery and pack voltages look okay, but how do they stand up under load is the question. Drive the cart around for half an hour, let the batteries rest for 15 minutes and measure the voltages. That should give you a pretty good idea of how good or bad the batteries are.

[SCTurkeyHunter1]

I do have just one more question. 95 Medalist Series Cart, 400 amp controller, HD Solenoid, HD F&R Switch and 2g. Cables with 22" tires and I run a solid 11 mph on flat streets. Does that sound normal? I knew it wasn't going to be a speed demon but I really expected more than 11. BTW, again I thank the both of you for all your help!

[JohnnieB]

The stock speed for a '95 Medalist Series is 12MPH and with 22" tires, it should get about 15MPH mathematically, but the stock controller, cables and F/R might not be able to pass the amps needed to turn the taller tires that fast. However, the upgrades you've listed ought to do the job.

You ought to be getting upwards of 15MPH with your setup.

Might be some mechanical drag someplace. Dry or bad bearings, dragging brakes shoes, under inflated tires, alignment, etc.

Or it could be electrical. Weak batteries, or not adequately charged? Excessive resistance in the high current circuit?

Clip your DVM on the main battery pack terminals and monitor voltage while at full speed. It'll drop quite a bit while accelerating, but shouldn't be down much while cruising. Remember that voltage.

Reconnect DVM between M- and B+ on controller. when cruising at full speed, the voltage ought to be pretty close to whatever the battery pack voltage was at full speed.