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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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09-17-2012, 09:24 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
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Worked fine, now nothing.
Parked my 1994 EZ-GO electric cart in my garage last night, this morning I get nothing. the batteries are less than a year old and show 36 Volts on my meter. I also checked for loose or corroded wires and everything looked good. Thae cart had been running peerfect up to now. I was wondering what I need to check! I am not a tech and would appreciate any advise anyone can give. Thanks
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09-17-2012, 09:44 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,895
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Most of the time when this happens it is because the cart was nice and hot when parked and after cooling down the solenoid sticks...An easy trick to try is to tap on the side of the solenoid with a wrench or hammer and try cart again...just be careful not to touch the wires or your gunna get a nice spark...if that doesnt work we can try jumping the solenoid next...
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09-17-2012, 10:37 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Thanks for replying. I'm looking in the battery compartment and can see the F&R Switch and the Controller box, but can't see where the solenoid is located. Would it be beneath the unit near the go pedal? Thanks
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09-17-2012, 10:41 AM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,895
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
No it is located inside the controller cover box on a bracket mounted in front of controller...
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09-17-2012, 10:41 AM | #5 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Those "less than a year old batteries" probably won't last much longer if you don't keep them fully charged.
Right now they are less than 50% charged (36V) and the plates are sufating as we speak. For maximum battery life expectancy, put them on charge after each use. A fully charged 36V battery pack should read 38.2V, or higher, 12 hours after they come off charge. If you are going to work on your cart, you'll need a DMM (Digital Multimeter). An inexpensive one sold a blister package at your local auto parts or discount store will suffice. The first question is, does the solenoid click when you press throttle pedal? If not, the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit. If so, the problem is in the high current circuit. In either case, it is fairly easy to troubleshoot with a DMM. The second question is what type drive system do you have? If it is a 1994 cart, my guess is that it is a Medalist body style with a series wound motor, but I might be wrong. |
09-17-2012, 10:54 AM | #6 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Here is a pic of a series cart with the controller cover off.
The solenoid is the silver thingy in front. The controller might look different because 1994 was when EZGO switched from the Curtis 1204 to the Curtis 1206 controller in series carts. |
09-17-2012, 11:43 AM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
I have a DMM and there is no click on the solenoid. I tapped it with a hammer and it still did not work. how do I trouble shoot the solenoid?
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09-17-2012, 12:35 PM | #8 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Here is a schematic for a series cart with the solenoid activation circuit traced.
Attach your negative test lead to the main negative terminal on the battery pack, as shown in second drawing. Rear wheels off ground (On jackstands) so it doesn't take off suddenly and hurt somebody or something. Keyswitch = ON F/R = Either F or R Pedal pressed. The first place to check for B+ (Battery pack voltage) is the smaller of the three wire coming out of the charge receptacle. If the receptacle in your cart only has two wires coming out of it, the first place would be the red jumper wire between the two microswitches on the F/R switch assembly. If you've got B+ there, check for it at the small solenoid terminal with red wires attached. If you don't have B+ there, check for it on the blue wire coming from MS-2 to going to keyswitch, then Green wire from keyswitch to pedal microswitch. If you have B+ on small solenoid terminal with red wires, check for it on the other small terminal, the one with black wires. If it is there, fix the black wire going to B- terminal on controller. Basically the solenoid activation circuit is 4 switches, 9 lengths of wire, 18 connections and an electromagnet coil connected in a series chain. |
09-17-2012, 02:55 PM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
Cart has 2 wires from charge recept, checked red jumper wires on F/R switch, got 37.6 volts. Checked small terminal on solenoid with 2 red wires -0.00. checked blue wire from MS-2 going to key switch got 37.6 volts. where do I need to check the green wire @ key switch or pedal microswitch? Do I need to remove ? I did not get any voltage on the solenoid except on the blue wire terminal. Thanks for your help!
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09-17-2012, 03:00 PM | #10 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,895
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Re: Worked fine, now nothing.
I would put your head to the floor with key off and slowly press pedal down...listen for the faint click of the pedal microswitch...thats another quick easy way to see if thats busted without having to take up the floormat...should hear the click soon after starting to push pedal down
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