'94 EZ GO won't go

[ez-buggie]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It is most likely the controller fried and you need a new better aftermarket control or you could have your OEM control repaired every6 months.
Don't get me wrong. These are great carts just the OEM control stinks.

Did you follow the troubleshooting guide for DCS carts in the stickies?

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html

Thanks scottyb I'll check it out this evening.

[ez-buggie]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It is most likely the controller fried and you need a new better aftermarket control or you could have your OEM control repaired every6 months.
Don't get me wrong. These are great carts just the OEM control stinks.

Did you follow the troubleshooting guide for DCS carts in the stickies?

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eshooting.html

Scotty, all checked out until I got to pg. E5 DCS troubleshooting sequence. Sequence 4 checking pin 5 showed 4.74V and the solenoid did not click. Going on to the other DCS checks and referencing pg. E8, things checked out until #3 where the reading was 14.85V. This looks to point to it being the ITS being faulty. What's your thoughts?

[scottyb]

There are 2 manuals in that stickie are you using the simple one here > file:///C:/Users/Owner/Downloads/dcs%20(2).pdf
If not - redo the tests.
Otherwise your key switch or keyswitch supply could be bad for 5v reading pin 5 with the pedal depressed.

[ez-buggie]

Originally Posted by scottyb

There are 2 manuals in that stickie are you using the simple one here > file:///C:/Users/Owner/Downloads/dcs%20(2).pdf
If not - redo the tests.
Otherwise your key switch or keyswitch supply could be bad for 5v reading pin 5 with the pedal depressed.

Scotty, can you make that a link I can access?

[ez-buggie]

scotty, this is the one that I used...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...leshooting.pdf

[ez-buggie]

Scotty, on test #4 am I to NOT to get 36v at #5 green at controller until I press the acc pedal? At which time the solenoid should click as well?

All other tests checked out. Only had the one above question on test #4.

[scottyb]

So ....... what does this tell you, acting test technician.

[ez-buggie]

Originally Posted by scottyb

So ....... what does this tell you, acting test technician.

I'm not sure actually. All tests seemed to be good. Have I verified all of the system up to the controller? Is this a "snatch the pebble from hand" moment?😐

[JohnnieB]

When following a troubleshooting tree, stop when you encounter a step that doesn't return the expected results and fix it before going further.

You didn't get full pack voltage in step-4 on page E5 (attached), so find out why not and fix it.

If you look at the schematic (also attached), you will notice that the voltage from the keyswitch feeds the solenoid coil and Pin-6 on the controller as well as the pedal switch. Check the voltage on Pin-6. If it is full pack voltage, the keyswitch is good, so the pedal switch, or the wiring to/from it, is bad.

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BTW, you have the early style F/R switch (with a diode). If the solenoid will click in F, but not in R, check the diode.

Also, if fixing the bad voltage at Pin-5 doesn't fix the problem, more trouble shooting is needed. If the controller does prove to be bad, or when it does fail, do yourself a favor and don't replace it with a stock DCS controller.

[ez-buggie]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

When following a troubleshooting tree, stop when you encounter a step that doesn't return the expected results and fix it before going further.

You didn't get full pack voltage in step-4 on page E5 (attached), so find out why not and fix it.

If you look at the schematic (also attached), you will notice that the voltage from the keyswitch feeds the solenoid coil and Pin-6 on the controller as well as the pedal switch. Check the voltage on Pin-6. If it is full pack voltage, the keyswitch is good, so the pedal switch, or the wiring to/from it, is bad.

---------
BTW, you have the early style F/R switch (with a diode). If the solenoid will click in F, but not in R, check the diode.

Also, if fixing the bad voltage at Pin-5 doesn't fix the problem, more trouble shooting is needed. If the controller does prove to be bad, or when it does fail, do yourself a favor and don't replace it with a stock DCS controller.

Thanks JohnnieB for your input! After looking and considering what to do here and factoring in my lack of knowledge in the area of diodes, amperes and reading schematics, I've done what Andy told Aunt B to do and that's, "call the man, Aunt B, call the man!". I know, I know tear a corner from my man card but I need to get this buggy running sooner than later. So, thanks to all who've commented and helped with this ordeal and I'll let you know what comes of my "house call".