2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Run/Tow switch is a standard on/off simple switch. It should have battery voltage on both sides when in Run mode. It feeds power to the ignition switch. There is a 3 amp fuse providing power to that circuit.

Ok, that being said, no issue there as the solenoid clicks when flipped to run.

In fact, tracing power through the ignition circuit, I get battery voltage when in Run and key on to the red/white wire at the pedal switch and then to the brown wire when the pedal is depressed. Key off, or run/tow switched, and no power there. Next stop for the brown wire is the harness connector at the controller, so the controller should be getting battery voltage on pedal depression.

Battery voltage is up to 54.1 with charger on, so it isn't low voltage. Charger is blinking green. I am hearing a bit of gas release from one of the batteries, but I can't see that being the issue.

Sounds like the controller isn't responding when it gets signal from the pedal, or the controller isn't transmitting power to the motor, or motor gets power but doesn't respond. I need to know what voltages to expect and where when pedal depressed. I'm betting solenoid is good, as the contact closes on the run/tow switch. From there, it appears that it should be up to the controller to push power to the motor, correct me if I am wrong. If that is the case, which terminals should be getting power on pedal depression.

Also, how do we test power to the motor without the cart moving inadvertantly...is there Neutral switch, or do we just jack it up? Like I said earlier, I am used to gas where there is a neutral switch to kick it out of gear.

Something that seems odd, when I checked voltage on the solenoid, I get battery voltage at the hot side as should be expected....0 on the controller side when in tow, then battery voltage on the controller side when switched to run, but that voltage starts to drop and continues to drop over time, as if it is a capacitor, not a contactor. Is this normal?

How do I test the controller, and/or the solenoid?

[ojo]

For any motor testing, lift the cart in the b ack, there is no 'N' position. There is a precharge resistor on solenoid, so what you described is normal. While hooked up to a charger, the cart won't run for security reasons.

Forget, on the right side of the accelerator pedal is the sensor, on the left with the plunger thats the stop switch.

[sleeplesstwo]

ojo is correct. Very sorry, I was thinking one thing and typing another. I meant the switch on the accelerator not the brake. I think I just get nervous when I post... It has a small brass rocker inside that can get corroded.

[ojo]

Yes, and it's not difficult to take the stopswitch apart...

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by sleeplesstwo

ojo is correct. Very sorry, I was thinking one thing and typing another. I meant the switch on the accelerator not the brake. I think I just get nervous when I post... It has a small brass rocker inside that can get corroded.

Which one has the brass rocker inside that gets corroded, and instructions on how to take it apart? I was looking and it appears there is a new throttle position switch on the pedal pivot. I will need to test it to make sure it is working properly. Anyone know what the resistance values are for the two wires to the black wire?...or the range for when the pedal is depressed? I know the other switch works...already tested it.

[sleeplesstwo]

The stop switch on the pedal is just open/closed. this is the black switch with a metal plunger. You wont need to take it apart if you have continuity across the RW and Br on the switch side, when the pedal/plunger is moved in and out. Nothing special there. If you wanted to pull it apart, slide the plunger boot back and remove the two small screws in the switch cover plate. Never had one that would last any amount of time after cleaning the contacts. Better to replace if bad.

The throttle potentiometer is attached to the pedal pivot rod. It will have 3 wires going into it. Blue, Black, and Orange. You can disconnect the sensor from the main harness an check the resistance value with your meter as you apply the accelerator pedal. You should see a value of less than 150 Ohms at rest, to 5K Ohms at full throttle, meter across Orange pin 7 and Black pin 6 wires at controller or respective pins on sensor. Should be a smooth transition.

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by sleeplesstwo

The stop switch on the pedal is just open/closed. this is the black switch with a metal plunger. You wont need to take it apart if you have continuity across the RW and Br on the switch side, when the pedal/plunger is moved in and out. Nothing special there. If you wanted to pull it apart, slide the plunger boot back and remove the two small screws in the switch cover plate. Never had one that would last any amount of time after cleaning the contacts. Better to replace if bad.

The throttle potentiometer is attached to the pedal pivot rod. It will have 3 wires going into it. Blue, Black, and Orange. You can disconnect the sensor from the main harness an check the resistance value with your meter as you apply the accelerator pedal. You should see a value of less than 150 Ohms at rest, to 5K Ohms at full throttle, meter across Orange pin 7 and Black pin 6 wires at controller or respective pins on sensor. Should be a smooth transition.

Finally got a chance to pull the throttle position sensor off. For anyone else looking to do this, it is much easier to simply pull the six bolts that hold the pedal bracket to the frame, and the two 7 mm bolts that hold the sensor on.

I get 54 ohms Black to Orange. There is a female cross that is spring loaded and connects to the pivot arm on the pedal...using a screw driver to turn it, I get no change in resistance from either outside pin to the middle pin. Middle pin is the black wire in the connector. This sure seams like a bad position sensor. Let me know if I did it wrong.

[sleeplesstwo]

Sounds like you got it right, and it is bad.

[JPonLKN]

Ok, so anyone know what would cause the throttle sensor to go bad? I have a replacement sensor that I believe will work, but the owner had just replaced the sensor with a new one with no success, and it is now bad. I'm concerned that something may be causing the sensors to fail. Anyone have the electrical diagnostics information that I can use to test other components before I install the new one, and have it fail on me?

[JPonLKN]

No response...

Anyone ever have multiple throttle position sensors fail? What would cause them to fail? Without knowing what amperage is supposed to be going through that circuit, there is no way to know if the new part will work or just burn up. Hate to trash a new part if the problem is something else causing them to go bad. Anyone have any thoughts on it?