2010 G29 electric stopped working

[poepjin]

I am trying to fix several G29 electric carts. I also have some working ones. So I went to crosscheck on my working ones to find out what is bad on the broken ones.
I have a service manual for this cart where everything is explained. Great!
So I came down to check the Throttle Position Sensor on a broken cart; I had bad readings not matching what it says in the book. So I ordered a new one, put it in, no success and when I checked I had no reading. So I thought the new TPS was bad and returned it and bought a different one. It came and I checked it before I put it inside: My readings don't match what it's in the manual. Can't be that I got 2x a bad part. (And yes I tried with a second Ohm meter to be sure)
So I brought over a working cart; unplugged the harness from the controller to check my readings: and it still didn't match with the manual....
And now the really bad part when I reconnected the controller the cart was not working anymore. The solenoid would click but the cart would not move. And this happened to me with 3 working carts.
I used the resetting procedure from the manual (see below), without success.
Please help: How to reset the MCU correctly??? The way it is explained in the manual seams to be wrong.


RESETTING MOTOR CONTROL
UNIT
Before performing any tests in this section, it is advisable to reset the motor control unit and again verify the problem still exists.
1. Turn the main switch OFF.
2. Move tow switch to the TOW position.
3. Wait 30 seconds and turn the main switch ON.
4. Turn tow switch to the RUN position.


And then.... I was so lucky to get my hands on a used Z-2Diagnostic Tester
I was so happy to see that this would solve all my problems with troubleshooting.
It came...but with the wrong harness adapter. I think on there is the one for the G22.
Does anybody have an idea where I could get the one for the G29??? Yamaha won't sell it to me.

Thanks for your time reading though all this.

[ojo]

I understand your discription so far but, can't really explain it. Two bad sensors are possible, especially if they're aftermarket ones. Enclosed the ITS test from the 2015+ service manual. Motor brushes + the controll unit ( Moric ) are prone to fail on this models. My '07 came with a replacement controller from 2011, so the OEM was gone after only 4 yrs. I've replaced that one with an Alltrax XCT 48300.

[Volt_Ampere]

My experience same as ojo! Moric controller, Hitachi motor both are weak and prone to failure. Bad motor brushes can and often do take out the controller too. If motor is original, I would pull it and replace the brushes at least. If you need a controller, go with Alltrax! You get free diagnostics and they are very good. I have two G29's and both have Alltrax controllers, Lithium batteries, D&D motors. (2009 and 2012 carts)

[poepjin]

Thanks guys! I understand your points and will consider those upgrades and checks.
What I don't understand and is leaving me out in the dark why these carts stop working just because I pull the harness from the MCU? I must do something wrong for resetting. What does your documentation and experience say?

[Volt_Ampere]

There is no resetting on the G29 Moric controller that I know of. Always first disconnect the batteries before touching any wiring on the cart - especially around the controller.

[poepjin]

Yes I did disconnected the batteries first. There is this resetting procedure in my manual:

Screen Shot 2022-09-01 at 08.43.23.png

Just so weird that this happened to me on 3 different carts

[ojo]

Originally Posted by poepjin

So I thought the new TPS was bad and returned it and bought a different one. It came and I checked it before I put it inside: My readings don't match what it's in the manual. Can't be that I got 2x a bad part. (And yes I tried with a second Ohm meter to be sure))

When testing the sensor, it has to be connected.?.

The resetting procedure sounds right, typical for any electronic device.

[poepjin]

I tried now dozens of times to reset this; with all kind of modifications to it but it doesn't work. I mean if this would happen to one cart I would believe something went bad. But this is now on the 3th cart the same problem. There must be some secret trick to reset the controller.
This are not my carts, only my time gets wasted on them. With this experience I would buy a gas powered cart 10x before a battery operated one. Just so much easier to diagnose the problems.

[rstacy]

I'm afraid that you are way off track.
Stop with the re-setting. That isn't going to fix this. Also the TPS rarely fails.

So lets start clean.
You hit the pedal and the solenoid closes. Correct?
Do you have 48 volts coming of of the solenoid when it is closed?
If you push the car does the solenoid close? Do you feel push back from the motor?
Does your reverse buzzer work when in reverse?

Answer those questions and we can proceed.

[poepjin]

Originally Posted by rstacy

I'm afraid that you are way off track.
Stop with the re-setting. That isn't going to fix this. Also the TPS rarely fails.

So lets start clean.
You hit the pedal and the solenoid closes. Correct?
Do you have 48 volts coming of of the solenoid when it is closed?
If you push the car does the solenoid close? Do you feel push back from the motor?
Does your reverse buzzer work when in reverse?

Answer those questions and we can proceed.

Thank you rstacy.
Yes, the solenoid closes when I press the pedal.
I get 48+ volts from the solenoid when it is closed (when it opens up again, the voltage drops slowly back down. I guess this is normal).
The solenoid closes when I push the car and I can feel push back from the motor.
The reverse buzzer is not working; but the buzzer was also not working before when the cart was still operating and was doing so in both directions. So just the beeper must be bad.