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Old 06-22-2011, 07:26 PM   #1
Big Chief
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Default Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

Looking for help on this one... 97 Series EZGO

A few months ago the cart started to hesitate when you hit pedal. It would sit until you "shook it/rolled it" and then it would start to move.

I finally had a chance to start some troubleshooting today... but things got worse.

First, I noticed when I jack the rear axel and hit pedal... I got nothing again. I started to realize if the cart "rolled backward" (wheels went backward) then I hit the pedal it would not move. If I rotated the tires (forward)... I was able to get it to move. Sort of like when I used to shake it, to get it going.

I tested B- and B+ (at controller) and got 37 volts. good.
I tested B- and +Solinod and got 37 volts. good.
I test B- to other side of solinoid and got 37.5 volts. <-- I dont think its good.

I pulled apart the forward/reverse and cleaned all the copper.

Then I went for a test drive.... it was went about 6 houses... then started to LOCK UP. This never happened before. Litterally... lock up and it stopped.

Pushed cart home...

Pulled all wires from motor.

Put + to A1 and - to S1.

Then used jumper for A2 and S2... I got sparks!!

Is the motor shot? Did i test something wrong? Miss something?

This is as far as a got. Thoughts?
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:30 PM   #2
Andy4639
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Thumbs up Re: Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

Motor test.

Thanks Nate,

Series Wound Electric Motor Testing

To test an electric series wound (Non-Regen) golf cart motor:
Raise the rear of the golf cart so the rear wheels spin freely, remove all wires from the motor. This electrically isolates the motor from the cart. Put a jumper wire from an "A" terminal to an "S" terminal.
Example: A1 to S1
Then hook a 12V battery or 12V battery charger in the 15+ amp (Start Boost) range to the remaining "A" and "S" terminal.
Example A2 and S2
Polarity is not critical for this test and the motor should turn one way or the other.

Do not run a motor with the front shaft unsupported.



Shunt Wound Electric Motor Testing

To bench test a shunt wound motor or regen motor you tie the S1 to A1 and the S2 to A2. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination. The motor should spin.

Do not run a motor with the front shaft unsupported. The motor can be tested in the cart also but be sure to raise the rear of the golf cart so the rear wheels spin freely, then remove all existing wires to isolate the motor from the cart
.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:37 PM   #3
rabbitreborn
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Default Re: Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

How many volts did you apply to the motor during the motor test? Getting sparks is normal, but you should only be using 12-18 volts for the test.

since you said it locked up I would almost bet you are gonna need a new motor.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:41 PM   #4
scottyb
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Default Re: Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

Having to roll a little bit to start is an indication of a motor problem too.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:39 AM   #5
Big Chief
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Default Re: Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

Whoops... I used 36 volts. I will try again at 12 volts.

I didn't really get multiple sparks... It was more like one giant "arc" of a spark. If you have ever welded something before... that was the kind of spark it was.

The comment made about testing the motor seemed like the process I used, which was:

A1=12 volts
S1=Ground
A2 jumper to S2


Unless I'm readying it wrong and it should be:

A1 and S1 tied together at 12 volts
A2 jumper to S2


If the above were correct, then I assume the motor case is the ground?

What do you mean by: "Do not run a motor with the front shaft unsupported"?
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:41 AM   #6
scottyb
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Default Re: Cart Died - Did Troubleshooting - Need Help

That means it must be mounted on the differential to hold the case and center the shaft. You can check for unwanted continuity also.... between any A and S terminal
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