2007 pos pds cart

[kbiedens]

Hi guys, newbie here....
I need some help before I shoot this cart!!!!
07 pds ezgo cart had sat for a year.... so I put BRAND NEW Trojans batteries in it.
Cart would run ok then for a block or two then stop.
so I ordered the speed chip ( its a joke all it is a set of jumper wires) anyway put that in would run around the block then when I get home turn the key off the solenoid would not engage...
so!!!! I replaced the following ...... Key switch (wore out anyway) new FWD/RWD switch,,, pedal micro switch .. original was broke due to pedal length changed).......it seemed the inductive pedal switch or TPS was fine they either work or they don't.
after all of these the solenoid (resistor had 250 ohms btw) still was not latching... so I replaced that!
Again, worked great after the battery had been disconnected for a bit and switched from tow to run. Around the block, stop it in the driveway let it sit, get in it then no solenoid click....

took it to a shop they said it was the controller..... so I bought a good one (Curtis 73326g07) and put it on this morning .... went around the block and was fine then guess what after it has sat for a bit.... Solenoid wont click cart wont move...
WTH!?????????????
SO basically after replacing all of the stuff I did it is acting the exact same way it did BEFORE I replaced everything......
SO what did I miss or am not doing?





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[JohnnieB]

Check for pack voltage on the smaller of the three wire coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle.

If you don't have full battery pack voltage there, the controller won't power up.

If that is the problem, bypass the reed switch.

[kbiedens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Check for pack voltage on the smaller of the three wire coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle.

If you don't have full battery pack voltage there, the controller won't power up.

If that is the problem, bypass the reed switch.

Yup went out and tried that took the cover offand my red/white wire is direct connected to white positve pack voltage.. the voltage at charging terminal 38.2v and same voltage controller connector (red/white wire).what ever closes the solinoid still ismt working.(blue wire/gnd)
oh and my hour meter isnt working either ... so the signal that comes from controller to solinoid isnt working.......
This is 2nd controller an second solinoid.... just no gnd on blue wire and 38volts on yellow on solenoid.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kbiedens

Yup went out and tried that took the cover offand my red/white wire is direct connected to white positve pack voltage.. the voltage at charging terminal 38.2v and same voltage controller connector (red/white wire).what ever closes the solinoid still ismt working.(blue wire/gnd)
oh and my hour meter isnt working either ... so the signal that comes from controller to solinoid isnt working.......
This is 2nd controller an second solinoid.... just no gnd on blue wire and 38volts on yellow on solenoid.

Energizing the solenoid is a two step process in a 36V PDS drive system, first is getting the controller to apply B+ to the coil (Yellow wire) and then getting the controller to apply B- to the other side of the coil (Blue wire). You have B+ on the Yellow wire, so the controller isn't connecting the Blue wire to B- like it ought to be doing.

That narrows it down to the pedal switch, the solenoid coil, some wiring or the controller.

You've tried two solenoids and two controllers, so that reduces the possibilities of those two item being bad, but does not entirely eliminate them.

When you have B+ (38.2V) on the Yellow wire, do you also have B+ on J1 Pin-6? If so, the solenoid coil is intact and the blue wire is probably good.

Check the voltage on J4 Pins 1 & 2.
With Key ON, Run/Tow in Run and either F or R selected on F/R switch, J4 Pin-2 should have B+ on it constantly and J4 Pin-1 should have B+ on it only when the pedal is pushed.

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As for the hour-meter, it isn't standard equipment on a TXT. What body style cart do you have?

[kbiedens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Energizing the solenoid is a two step process in a 36V PDS drive system, first is getting the controller to apply B+ to the coil (Yellow wire) and then getting the controller to apply B- to the other side of the coil (Blue wire). You have B+ on the Yellow wire, so the controller isn't connecting the Blue wire to B- like it ought to be doing.

That narrows it down to the pedal switch, the solenoid coil, some wiring or the controller.

You've tried two solenoids and two controllers, so that reduces the possibilities of those two item being bad, but does not entirely eliminate them.

When you have B+ (38.2V) on the Yellow wire, do you also have B+ on J1 Pin-6? If so, the solenoid coil is intact and the blue wire is probably good.

Check the voltage on J4 Pins 1 & 2.
With Key ON, Run/Tow in Run and either F or R selected on F/R switch, J4 Pin-2 should have B+ on it constantly and J4 Pin-1 should have B+ on it only when the pedal is pushed.

----------
As for the hour-meter, it isn't standard equipment on a TXT. What body style cart do you have?

Hey there sorry it's taken a while to get back ...
Ok so pack voltage is 36.8 have 36.8 on yellow wire
Have 36.5 on blue wire.
On j4 1 and 2 I have constant voltage of 36.4 on red pin2 and when I push the pedal in fwd I get 36.4 on green pin1.
But my solinoid is clicking 3 time then stops when the pedal is depressed the stops fb. Has voltage of T
36 on yellow at solinoid but blue goes nut when it's clicking...


Ok so NEw development... swapped out controller for an extra I had... bam wheels turn so it is defiantly a controller fault..
Took bad controller apart and blown diodes. ..for sure will have to look deeper for Mosfet damage.


Ok so controller like the curtis 1206 either work or they don't correct the reason I ask is my motor don't sound smooth... this was a golf course cart before I got it so I'm sure it's been rode hard many times.... I think I'm going to drop the motor and clean it and put new brush in it....thoughts?

[JohnnieB]

It's best to keep the batteries charged a fully as possible and practical, and 36.8V is only 62% charged.

A Curtis 1206 is for a series drive, a Curtis 1206SX is for a DCS and a Curtis 1206MX what you have in your PDS. The 1206 without a suffix is the least complex controller, the 1206MX is the most complex of the three and the 1206SX is someplace between the two.

Inside the 1206MX case there is a high power controller for Armature Amps and a low power controller for Field Amps, plus circuitry the feeds the external ITS senor and more circuitry that decode the return signal from the ITS sensor as well as circuitry the arms and fires the solenoid coil. In addition, there are the housekeeping electronics that tie those four major subsections together and coordinate their tasks. A subsection of the 1206MX can fail without effecting the other parts, but when any of its subsections fail, the whole unit has to be replaced.

Replace the bearing while you have the motor apart.

The oil in the differential probably needs to be changed also.

Check the F1 & F2 cables for worn through insulation where they are routed around the batteries.