Wiring reducer setup

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Sorry, I came in late on this and don't mean to butt in but would like to add something that may help. These reducers may take a few seconds to energize before they work.

you are not butting in ... all things need to be seen from as many eyes as possible

you are correct it takes a few seconds to energize

[JaxPilot]

Would the On/Off switch in post #2 work sort of like an avionics master switch on an airplane? Meaning would OFF disconnect all 12 V power all the time, regardless of key switch position?

[Mooncarter]

OK. Now I have a question. As cgtech pointed out, if you draw the voltage from the keyswitch wiring instead of the pack aren't you asking a lot out of that small wire, as opposed to from direct pack +?

Also, in post 2, if you have pack voltage that can be interrupted by an on/off switch, why would you run anything to the key switch? If the key switch energizes the reducer when the key is on, why do you need the on/off switch? Seems to me the reducer is/could be energized 2 ways. What am I missing?

Originally Posted by JaxPilot

Would the On/Off switch in post #2 work sort of like an avionics master switch on an airplane? Meaning would OFF disconnect all 12 V power all the time, regardless of key switch position?

yes it would cut all power ... the reducer draws voltage to work ...the key or an on/off switch cuts off that draw

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

OK. Now I have a question. As cgtech pointed out, if you draw the voltage from the keyswitch wiring instead of the pack aren't you asking a lot out of that small wire, as opposed to from direct pack +?

yes it is a lot for a small wire but it also supplys power to the controller with no problems... wire is 16gage
the reed switch and key switch are the weak links

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Also, in post 2, if you have pack voltage that can be interrupted by an on/off switch, why would you run anything to the key switch? If the key switch energizes the reducer when the key is on, why do you need the on/off switch? Seems to me the reducer is/could be energized 2 ways. What am I missing?

the red dotted line is to show if key is used
you don't need both
only one is needed
you can just wire it to pack but it will be on all the time
the first photo (fromGolfer24/7) is one i did to show the meter wiring on all the time or hooked to key
the reducer is on all the time
i did that alooooong time ago ... it is for a club car prec

[Mooncarter]

Got it crash. So it is either, not both. Yes I have done this too.

[Mooncarter]

Ok. I can't help but ask. Jaxpilot, what is the voltage of the aircraft? 12v like a car or boat?

[Golfer24/7]

CTD I wasn't sure which pin was number 9 based on which way you look at it so I figured i spliced the right one because both wires going to key switch are white and yellow so one of the 2 has to be the correct one. Am I right on that?

I had a few wires come loose on a patch job I did for the lights when I got the cart. Gonna rewrite and see if that was my issue why the lights wouldn't not come on with reducer hooked up.

Thanks


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[Golfer24/7]

Got the wires fixed for lights but they will still not come on via reducer. So I used my 12v battery charger to check lights and they work with charger hooked up to neg and pos ends of wire. So with that said I am almost 99% sure of all of my hookups except the j1 #9 pin splice. Not sure if I have the pos lead spliced into right wire. Maybe this is why reducer will not work?

If u are looking straight on at j1 does it number from top to bottom as so?
12345
678910

If so the orange wire would be in #9 slot but that wire plugs into back of f/r switch I believe it is the "forward" wire. That's why I spliced into the white yellow wire because it goes to back of key switch.

If I can't get this key switch wire to work I will just run it straight to pos battery terminal and put a toggle switch on it later.


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[JaxPilot]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Ok. I can't help but ask. Jaxpilot, what is the voltage of the aircraft? 12v like a car or boat?

Yes, it's a 12 volt system. There are two "master" switches in most aircraft. Due to the surge and noise in the electrical system during engine start, the sensitive electronics can be isolated to a separate circuit. So startup procedure is to power on the aircraft electrical system with the master switch, activate external strobes, crank the engine. Once the engine is started and idling, the avionics master is activated and all the radios and other electronics power up.

What I want to accomplish with the cart is a similar strategy. One switch to deactivate the converter from battery power, for long periods of inactivity to eliminate battery drain. Another switch to activate all the 12v side of the converter, so that if the "master" is on, I can run accessories by powering up the "12v master" and toggle each accessory individually.