Battery Terminal Protector spray.

[tgseaver]

About to change my battery cables and a friend suggested I use a protector spray after connection ...No? Yes? Can't hurt? Amazon has CRC Battery Terminal Protector for $10.00
Thanks

[Doubles Shooter]

I use NO-OX-ID. Get it on e-bay. $6.50 for a 1oz container. Should be enough to do many golf carts. Brush it on. A little goes a long way.

[Roy Gurley]

I use CRC and have no problems with it! Works best for me.

[Sir Nuke]

YES....I use CRC's as well, its easy to find at auto parts stores.

[JohnnieB]

Vasoline works too.

I use NO-OX-ID A-Special.

Whatever you use, start with clean terminals and lugs (bright metal) and cover all surfaces exposed to air.

[kernal]

And while you're at it pay attention to stacking order. The large power cables should go on the battery post first with the smaller wires on top. You want the high current cables to have the best, cleanest and most surface area connection possible. Tighten down but not too tight. I believe the spec is 95-105 INCH pounds. (about 8 ft lbs)

[Doubles Shooter]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Vasoline works too.

I use NO-OX-ID A-Special.

Whatever you use, start with clean terminals and lugs (bright metal) and cover all surfaces exposed to air.

That's the stuff. I bought a tube that size. Can probably do 500 carts or more .

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Doubles Shooter

That's the stuff. I bought a tube that size. Can probably do 500 carts or more .

I use it on the AC wiring in the house. Eventually every switch, outlet, light fixture and wire nut will have it applied to the connections. I've already done the breaker box and the critical and the heavy amp draw circuits.

Having seen fires started by loose/dirty connections in breaker boxes at work, I clean/tighten the wires on all the breakers in my panel at homes every couple of years or so. A few years ago, I had a breaker that popped occasionally, which got to be too often for me and I cleaned the screw terminal for the wire as well as the bus bar interface the breaker slides onto. Still popped, but not as often. Then one day I spotted the tube of NO-OX-ID in the garage and wondered if it would help. That breaker didn't pop in over a month, so I did the same to all the breakers in the box haven't had any heat issues in the panel since. I still check the screws on the wires every now and then, but they are staying tight.

Still have way more than half the tube.

[zero26tb4u]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Whatever you use, start with clean terminals and lugs (bright metal) and cover all surfaces exposed to air.

Is it necessary to polish the mating surface on new batteries also?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by zero26tb4u

Is it necessary to polish the mating surface on new batteries also?

The mating surfaces should be reasonably smooth and flat.

The lead on new batteries is oxidized as is the copper of new lugs, so the both need some TLC.

I rubbed the copper ring terminals (lugs) across a flat file a few times to knock of the high spots and flatten the surface. My batteries have bolt through posts, so I gave them a light stroke or two with same file.

I don't remember where I saw it, but there is a dressing tool for the stud type battery terminals that shaves off the irregularities and leaves a flat surface.