Hot solenoid

[DubK]

1994 36 volt Medalist. I have upgraded the solenoid to a 400amp, 2 gauge cables, HD F&R, switch..but still running stock controller and motor. Haven't driven the cart for a couple weeks and just went out to check on things. The solenoid is hot. What would cause this while not being driven? Key is off and no pedals were pushed slightly.

[JohnnieB]

A 1994 Medalist most likely has a series drive, does it?

Check for voltage on the solenoid's small terminal with the red wires on it. If there is pack voltage, the solenoid is staying energized for some reason.

[DubK]

It's a series cart. I just tried to tighten connections to make sure everything is tight and it arched. So I disconnected the cable from the solenoid to the battery, and the solenoid clicked like it
shut off and stopped drawing power. What would cause it to be drawing power?

[DubK]

This is the connection that arched when I was trying to tighten it just now. I disconnected it from the battery and the solenoid clicked like it shut off.

[JohnnieB]

There are a bunch of filter capacitors inside the controller that are kept charged via the pre-charge resistor connected between the solenoid's large terminal. For safety reasons, the capacitors have a bleeder network and there is a constant flow through the 250Ω resistor.

When you disconnect the B+ cable, did you do it from the battery end and disconnect the charge cable also? If so, the solenoid activation circuit is constantly engaged and there is one or more switches whose contacts are closed when they shouldn't be.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DubK

This is the connection that arched when I was trying to tighten it just now. I disconnected it from the battery and the solenoid clicked like it shut off.

Looks like the white wire from the charge receptacle is connected to the solenoid's battery side large terminal along with the B+ cable from the battery pack, so when either end of the B+ cable was disconnected, the voltage to the reed switch was disconnected also, de-energizing the solenoid coil.

Again: Check for voltage on the solenoid's small terminal with the red wires on it. If there is pack voltage, the solenoid is staying energized for some reason.

There are 4 switch the voltage has to go through to get to the solenoid coil. Reed switch, MS-2 on F/R assembly, Keyswitch and pedal switch.

Sounds like you have some bad switches or something miss-wired.

-----------
If the terminal in the picture was loose, some arcing would likely occur when tightened.

Also, can't see in the picture, but the stacking order ought to be B+ cable on first, then white charger wire and resistor on last.

[DubK]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

....
When you disconnect the B+ cable, did you do it from the battery end and disconnect the charge cable also? If so, the solenoid activation circuit is constantly engaged and there is one or more switches whose contacts are closed when they shouldn't be.

I did not disconnect anything from the controller. I disconnected the large cable on the solenoid to the battery, at the battery end. When I did so, I heard the solenoid click like it was shutting off.

[DubK]

Ok! Thank you I will check all of this and make sure the stacking of wires order is correct and reply back!

[JohnnieB]

It just occurred to me that a 1994 Medalist wouldn't have a reed switch, so here is the correct schematic for your cart.

[Andy4639]

The 2 small connections activate the solenoid. The 2 big terminals just pass the juice through. Look and see if the cables some how were touching the small connections and activating it. Look at the wiring for the 2 small connections. You may have swapped the wires and bypassed 1 of the micro's.

Easy to do.