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Old 03-12-2014, 09:18 PM   #1
lake surfer
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Default driven clutch help

Well today was disappointing. I know I need a new driven clutch. I called Don at plowman's and was left with more questions than answers and sadly he couldn't help me. So I'm turning to you guys. With the info given to me by Don I have the following queshtions.

1. What driven clutch should I buy? Comet list two that pair with the new 780. One is 9.25" the other is 9.5". I installed with the vc440 swap with the 780 clutch.

2. How do I figure out what the cl to cl measurement should be? Apparently Geoff at Vegas carts hand tight belt method is not a good one and will result in a broken input shaft. According to Don.

3. What belt do I use in all of this?

Comets website list two driven clutches that pair with the 780 but I have no idea what the shaft size is or requirements are. Don basicly laughed and said he couldn't help me. Kinda disappointed in that after everything I read here. He said with the motor swap etc he didn't know what to do for me. I spoke with Geoff and he just tells me to buy his driven clutch and he has two available OEM or comet. If I'm going to spend the money I'd like a little upgrade at least. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
lake surfer
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Default Re: driven clutch help

I need to make a correction here my disappointment may have come off a little sideways. I'm in no way disappointed with plowmans. Don provided me with more information than I can possibly comprehend he clearly knows his stuff. I'm getting a crash course in CVT clutches, alignment, offset, etc. My disappointment is in the motor kit I purchased that does not explain any of these things. It was push the motor forward with the belt on making it hand tight. After a short conversation with Don clearly this is not right. There are dimensions based on belt clutch etc. Don is doing his best to help me out and I will update this thread as everything progresses.

Hopefully others who have purchased the same motor kit will find the information here valuable.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: driven clutch help

The only secondary mods I've seen are for the EZGO's, some people have used the Polaris roller secondary clutches from a Sportsman atv. I've heard they really wake up the drivetrain.

What kind of problem are you having?

What are you looking to accomplish?

If you stock secondary is in good working condition it should work pretty well, except for maybe steep hills or drag racing, both of which are pretty extreme for a golf cart. I have a Plowman's secondary on mine, very happy with it. I ran the stock G2 for a few days and really noticed a difference in low end acceleration when I switched to the Plowman's unit. Basically it's just a steeper angle on the sheave faces, and possibly on the helix. Paired with a stiffer spring really gives low gear a boost, but might take away top end.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: driven clutch help

Hey slonomo,

My secondary is shot is is dished the ramps are warn. That is what prompted my call to Don. I called him based on all the reviews on here. He was an over whelming wealth of knowledge. But he asked me questions that raised more questions and after confirming what he was asking I came to the conclusion that I have my cart set up wrong. Three things I have learned so far and will post the answers once I get them figured out.

1. The two clutches have to be a certain distance apart to work correctly. There is an actual number based on the two clutches and the belt.

2. The driven pully should be offset from the drive pully. Again there is an actual number for this based on the clutch belt configuration.

3. No one seems to talk about these thing and even less seem to know about it.

I'm learning! Not sure how well but learning none the less.
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Old 03-14-2014, 06:08 AM   #5
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Default Re: driven clutch help

Quote:
Originally Posted by lake surfer View Post
Hey slonomo,

My secondary is shot is is dished the ramps are warn. That is what prompted my call to Don. I called him based on all the reviews on here. He was an over whelming wealth of knowledge. But he asked me questions that raised more questions and after confirming what he was asking I came to the conclusion that I have my cart set up wrong. Three things I have learned so far and will post the answers once I get them figured out.

1. The two clutches have to be a certain distance apart to work correctly. There is an actual number based on the two clutches and the belt.

2. The driven pully should be offset from the drive pully. Again there is an actual number for this based on the clutch belt configuration.

3. No one seems to talk about these thing and even less seem to know about it.

I'm learning! Not sure how well but learning none the less.
LOL! You sound like me, once we hear the "science" in doing something we have to abide by that. Here's what I have found. I've read just about everything there is to read about CVT clutches, I could give you about 10 links to great sites that talk "science". Here's the reality. No one really knows. LOL. Yeah, that's right. The guru's can speculate about this, measure that, mic this, calculate that. They really never ever know how a setup is going to work until they actually try it. Sometimes they are right, sometimes they aren't. Unfortunately, when you swim in uncharted waters, you tend to swallow a little sea water, you know? You have to spend a little money to try different setups and experiment, especially when you are using a setup that no one has tried or there is very little documented about.

Here's what I would do. You need to get a baseline. If your driven clutch is worn out, you really don't know what it "should" operate like. You'll need to get a new clutch on there to get your baseline. I would start with a stock driven clutch. There's a lot of guys on here that run stock parts and do very well with them, and often love the way they run. Get good parts on there and see where you are, it might very well be what you want and need at that point. Then drive it for a while, do your research, feel it out, and experiment. There is no "perfect setup". Your preferences might be different than mine, and the next guy's etc etc.

Listen, there are 100's of guys that have this setup and are very happy and get great performance and usability:

1. Clone engine, built or stock
2. Stock used clutch with tapered adapter
3. Stock used driven clutch

If any of these parts have been upgraded, then you are ahead of the game. I was in the same boat, and still am. I started with all stock parts. Wasn't satisfied. Fully modded the stock engine, ordered a tunable drive clutch, a Plowman's muffler and secondary clutch...prob spent $1000 on it. Still wasn't what I wanted. So I started over.

Here's where I am now. Fully modded VC440 clone, stock Yami primary, Plowman's secondary with stock gold spring, and a 59" belt! LOL I basically set the clutches up straight with each other, so the belt was in the center of the primary and not touching either sheave. It performs flawlessly. There was no science in this setup, just good old fashioned hp, with a stock primary and a performance secondary. I couldn't be happier really. Is there a better setup? Maybe. I'll never know unless I try other parts. But for now, it's what I wanted and needed.

That's what I am going to suggest to you. First get good parts on there. Make sure the clutches are lined up straight, new belt, and see how she does. Go from there.
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Old 03-14-2014, 06:17 AM   #6
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Default Re: driven clutch help

Another good resource is Tom at CPP. He's built a lot of big block carts, seen a lot of different setups. Give him a try. You might get a different perspective.
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:48 AM   #7
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Default Re: driven clutch help

Thanks for the reply Slonomo! Sounds like we have the same thought process. The hard part for me Is I don't like doing things two and three times. That's where I struggle with driven clutch. part of me agrees with you and says buy a stocker and start at a base line. then work up from there. the other side of me says if a guy (Don) has been down this path and knows what works and what doesn't then listen to him. Don is confident he can do the job but it would require all new clutches and possibly a belt. I just purchased a comet 780....

Right now my options are kinda simple I think

1. listen to Don order new clutches that he has worked his magic on and new belt and be done with it. ride around with a smile and enjoy my little cart.

2. order up a stock driven clutch and then start working my way up from there.

Out of the two options number 1 is at a cost but has very little work involved. number two comes at a much much lower initial cost but has the ability to grow to who knows how much and requires some work. I don't mind doing the work or spending the money. but what I don't want is to do things 4 and five times. summer is right around the corner and I am hoping to have this project complete ASAP. I need to start thinking about boating and I have a couple projects to get done on it prior to the season starting. right now I`m just gathering as much info as I can to make the best informed decision. The hard part for me is it has to perform and where I live if we aren't going up hill we are coasting down hill. flat roads don't exist in my neck of the woods. this adds a little twist in all my decision making. Enough of my ramblings! Ill keep this thread updated. and if any one has any info the would be beneficial in the decision making process it would be much appreciated. Thanks..
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:10 AM   #8
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Default Re: driven clutch help

Well, if "steep hills" are in your future, you won't be disappointed with the Plowman's clutch. It works great. There really isn't any downside to using it, unless you put too stiff of a spring in there, then it'll just have a longer low gear before it upshifts. You won't be disappointed.

I guess my point was, you won't find anyone who can tell you 100% what your cart will do with any certain parts on it. The reason is we all interpret info differently, and the performance of a golf cart is no exception.

And don't worry about the belt length, distance, offset etc. If you have a clone, a 780, and a Plowman's secondary, you'll be good to go. Just line them up center to center.
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