10-12-2019, 08:04 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
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Run/tow switch
I have a 2010 club car president I just purchased. With the key switch in the off position and the run tow switch in the run position the cart will move forward and reverse. Checking voltage at the key switch in the off position and the run/tow switch in run position one side is hot 24V and the other side is also hot, 24v. Also the battery charge level indicator light is on. With the run/tow switch in tow I have 24v in and low voltage of 6 or less coming out of the key switch (using a test light that reads 6-48 volts) With the run/tow switch in tow the battery light indicator is off and the cart, as I think it should reacts normal, key switch on, cart operates forward and reverse, key switch off no run. Any idea?
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10-12-2019, 06:06 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: Run/tow switch
On a Precedent Model that is usually caused by not using the provided negative off Controller B- for the 12v/16V tap.
If You have lights and don't have a voltage reducer, get one. If You want to continue to tap individual batteries, You can only use the Controller B- for negative and the positive can be where you measure 12v or 16v from pack negative. You should also get a digital multimeter, even the harbour freight free ones work well for troubleshooting purposes. |
10-13-2019, 07:19 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
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Re: Run/tow switch
Sergio thank you for the information, very helpful. I do have a digital v/ohm meter and will use it. One more question, what is this? Was not hooked up any where, just mounted when I bought the cart. Thank you for your help 😁
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10-13-2019, 07:34 AM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 2,827
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Re: Run/tow switch
That blue box IS the 16 volt to 12 volt reducer. Club Car sold those for a while, many aftermarket suppliers followed their lead. If it's not connected to anything it's almost certainly dead, but even when it worked it was a poor choice. That would take power from 2 of your 6 batteries - depleting them more /faster than the rest of the pack. Charger doesn't know the difference so it recharges them all the same. Those 2 batteries will become less and less effective - further from the full charge of the others with each discharge / recharge cycle. Get rid of it and get yourself a 48 to 12 volt reducer. A proper 48 to 12 reducer will draw evenly off all 6 batteries, and should be wired with the (-) feed to B- on the controller so everything will track & charge correctly.
Last edited by meimk; 10-13-2019 at 07:36 AM.. Reason: typos |
10-13-2019, 07:53 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: Run/tow switch
Get rid of that box as it will not be used.
All battery posts (except the pack positive post) should only have a single cable and no extra wires. The pack positive battery post will have the main cable going to Solenoid and a 10ga red wire from the charger. If You are using a voltage reducer there should be a blue wire that provides the +48v input for the 48v->12v reducer. Remove that black wire from the negative post of the pack positive battery as that is what is causing your problem. Remove any other wire connected to any of the battery posts (see note for pack positive). Tape any disconnected connectors so not to short against anything. You may also want to disconnect the positive for the accessories until You get a reducer. Check with RevolutionGolfCars.com for a plug-and-play voltage reducer for the Precedent. |
10-13-2019, 06:31 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
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Re: Run/tow switch
Thanks guys, Meimk and Sergio. I did find a great service manual for the ccp. I will be getting the regulator, plug and play. I did remove the ground and it solved my problem. Thanks again.
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