96 Lifted Club Car DS - Low Voltage on MicroSW

[entrican]

I have a 1996 48v DS with a GE dual voltage series wound motor 4hp/5.5hp in it.

My first and most direct questions is - I only have 12v - 15v on the (F)orward micro-switch and the small terminals on the solenoid - is this correct? I tested my buddies cart the other day and his has full voltage on the small terminals.

I recently purchased this cart from a seemingly innocent nice old man who I want to believe didn't know that the cart had been ferociously snacked on by rats!! The wiring up front (under the dash) had been completely eaten away.

I've since replaced the ignition with a temporary toggle (only because it didn't work) and re-wired the battery light, the reverse buzzer, and ignition according to the wiring diagram provided to me by the local cart shop who sold it the old man. I've tested that everything up front now tones end-to-end according to the wiring diagram i have.

I replaced the batteries and have 60v across the outside (+/-) terminals on the batteries.

When I turn on the ignition, put the FNR switch in the (F) position and lightly step on the gas, I do NOT hear the solenoid click - BUT I do have voltage passing through it (not sure if it welded itself closed - does this happen?). I confirmed by this checking the B+/B- terminals on the speed controller and it shows the same 60v. It appears the only way the speed controller can show full voltage is IF the solenoid was letting it through.

I also measured the red lead coming off the small lug on the solenoid to the speed controller and it too has the same 12v-15v.

I'm really hoping one of you have seen this and can suggest where to look next.

Only other thing which strikes me as odd, is that now that I have the reverse buzzer hooked back up, it activates when the FNR switch is in the reverse AND forward positions. All 3 fingers on the micro-switches are lifted when the FNR switch is in the (F) position, but only the middle and outside finger are lifted while in reverse.

I'm anxiously awaiting any advice.

[scottyb]

F&R micro switch should read full battery voltage. Since the cart has lights (12v) I assume you have 12v to the key switch somehow? That should be battery voltage as well. Hope this helps

[entrican]

Originally Posted by scottyb

F&R micro switch should read full battery voltage. Since the cart has lights (12v) I assume you have 12v to the key switch somehow? That should be battery voltage as well. Hope this helps

Correct - it does have lights, but to be honest - the wires were in such bad shape, I removed them until I could get the basics of the cart working. My cart is equipped with a 12v interface that is currently not connected to the batteries.

In the wiring diagram I'm using, the ignition is wired in the following manner and I used a lighted toggle which actually does illuminate when I push the pedal.

One side of the toggle (my temporary ignition) is wired to the blue on the potentiometer, and the other side is run to the orange/white on the battery light and a small pole on the solenoid.

It might also be worth noting - i tried swapping the solenoid with a brand new one and saw the same results. I could measure 60v across the high amperage lugs and yet still only 12v-15v across the little ones.

[Sergio]

It looks like you have your micro-switches wired wrong and the FNR direction is reversed as well.

All three micro-switches should be depressed when the FNR is in Reverse, not Forward since one of the micro-switches is depressed to sound the buzzer.

Check the high-res wiring diagram below to see if it matches your cart:

[entrican]

[QUOTE=Sergio;1679736]It looks like you have your micro-switches wired wrong and the FNR direction is reversed as well.

All three micro-switches should be depressed when the FNR is in Reverse, not Forward since one of the micro-switches is depressed to sound the buzzer.

Check the high-res wiring diagram below to see if it matches your cart:

*NOTE: I had to remove the link because it wouldn't let me until I've been a member for 7 days.

Thankfully - most of what resides under the seat was untouched by the rats, and the micro-switches appear to be in their stock orientation ... I wonder if the plastic assembly which raises and lowers the fingers on those switches is somehow messed up. I checked for continuity on all of them, and they begin and end at the right locations according to the wiring diagram i'm using ... which is the same as the one you attached with the exception of my motor having slightly different lug assignments.

I've embedded a video i put on YouTube which shows me articulating the FNR switch while watching the micros witches.

I really appreciate the help!

EDIT: I cannot add a video link for another 4 days :-\

[Sergio]

That FNR looks strange, it is almost like someone took it apart and assembled the swivel part upside down if that is possible....

Look at the wires, they don't match the diagram, the terminals on the micro-switch are important since one is a NO (normally opened) and the other is a NC (normally closed).

Your middle switch that goes to the buzzer should have a wire connected to the top terminal.

Can you post another picture showing the wire colors and what positions they connect to what micro-switch in the FNR?

[entrican]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That FNR looks strange, it is almost like someone took it apart and assembled the swivel part upside down if that is possible....

Look at the wires, they don't match the diagram, the terminals on the micro-switch are important since one is a NO (normally opened) and the other is a NC (normally closed).

Your middle switch that goes to the buzzer should have a wire connected to the top terminal.

Can you post another picture showing the wire colors and what positions they connect to what micro-switch in the FNR?

I removed that upper reverse buzzer wire for diagnostic purposes - it's the one that leads to the B- on the controller. I was just making sure the lead had a good crimp and tested properly to the controller.

I've tested for continuity on all of them, so I know they're going to the right places ... i'm puzzled by what state each micro-switch should be in when the FNR switch is in (F) and (R) mode.

I'll test for continuity and voltage across the in/out on these micro-switches to confirm they're actually being closed in the various positions.

I'm beginning to wonder if I have a speed controller failure or potentiometer failure since I'm only getting 12(ish) volts out of the speed controller on the red spade lead from the speed controller.

[Sergio]

If You look at the micro-switches in the picture, the TOP terminal is the 'Common' terminal and there will always be a wire there.

The Middle terminal is the NO terminal and it has no continuity to the TOP terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and continuity when the lever is depressed.

The Bottom terminal (closest to the lever) is the NC terminal and it has continuity to the TOP (common) terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and no continuity if the lever is depressed.

So starting with the micro-switch closest to the FNR body:

#1 Micro-Switch:

It is the interlock switch and should have wires on Top and Middle terminals and depressed in both Forward and Reverse positions.

#2 Micro-Switch:

It is the reverse buzzer switch and should have wires on the Top and Middle terminals and depressed only in the Reverse position.

#3 Micro-Switch :

It is the reduced reverse speed and should have wires on all three terminals (Green on Top, Black on the Middle and White on the bottom) and should be depressed only in the Reverse position.

[entrican]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You look at the micro-switches in the picture, the TOP terminal is the 'Common' terminal and there will always be a wire there.

The Middle terminal is the NO terminal and it has no continuity to the TOP terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and continuity when the lever is depressed.

The Bottom terminal (closest to the lever) is the NC terminal and it has continuity to the TOP (common) terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and no continuity if the lever is depressed.

So starting with the micro-switch closest to the FNR body:

#1 Micro-Switch:

It is the interlock switch and should have wires on Top and Middle terminals and depressed in both Forward and Reverse positions.

#2 Micro-Switch:

It is the reverse buzzer switch and should have wires on the Top and Middle terminals and depressed only in the Reverse position.

#3 Micro-Switch :

It is the reduced reverse speed and should have wires on all three terminals (Green on Top, Black on the Middle and White on the bottom) and should be depressed only in the Reverse position.

Thank you - i'll check all of this tonight and report back.

[entrican]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You look at the micro-switches in the picture, the TOP terminal is the 'Common' terminal and there will always be a wire there.

The Middle terminal is the NO terminal and it has no continuity to the TOP terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and continuity when the lever is depressed.

The Bottom terminal (closest to the lever) is the NC terminal and it has continuity to the TOP (common) terminal when the lever is in its normal resting position and no continuity if the lever is depressed.

So starting with the micro-switch closest to the FNR body:

#1 Micro-Switch:

It is the interlock switch and should have wires on Top and Middle terminals and depressed in both Forward and Reverse positions.

#2 Micro-Switch:

It is the reverse buzzer switch and should have wires on the Top and Middle terminals and depressed only in the Reverse position.

#3 Micro-Switch :

It is the reduced reverse speed and should have wires on all three terminals (Green on Top, Black on the Middle and White on the bottom) and should be depressed only in the Reverse position.

ok - so I went through the micro-switches and I've decided it's time to buy a new harness or just completely re-wire the cart. The condition of the crimps, wires, and connectors and are suspect in my mind.

However, I'm still puzzled by my FNR switch. The plastic molding which raises/lowers those fingers on the micro-switches is definitely working as designed, but I what I don't know is if maybe that FNR switch is from another cart or something ... really strange.

Thank you for your help - It is much appreciated!