Club Car Precedent Won't Move. Help!

[ClubCarDude]

I have a 2008 CC Precedent. 4x12v batts. While wiring up a wiring harness for a light kit I must have screwed up something because once I was done it won't move. The cart ran perfect before I started wiring the headlight/taillight kit.

I triple check all the new wiring and it's now correct. For a brief moment I did have the new harness hooked up incorrectly to the existing harness which made the reverse buzzer come on faintly. Hopefully I didn't send 48v to something that didn't want 48v. The new lights at least work but she wont move! lol.

I have tested all the below and I am 95% sure its not the: MCOR, Ignition Switch or FNR Switch. The charger comes on and charges and the reverse buzzer sounds when put in reverse so that leads me to believe the OBC is ok. Pack voltage is very good and batteries are only 1 year old.

This lead me to believe it was the controller or the solenoid. Since the solenoid was cheaper I bought a 48v Albright solenoid. Hooked it up and got nothing. When testing the old solenoid I do hear a faint click, like its half switching but even with 48v it's faint and just doesn't sound right.

I pulled the new solenoid back out and then checked it and its tripping the breaker in my little tester when put under 12 or 48v load. So either I got a bad brand new solenoid OR something in my cart shorted it out when I hooked up the new one. The old solenoid did not have a resistor or jumper attached to it so I didn't make or attach one to the new one. The new one does have a tiny resister built in to the small posts though.

Sorry it was so long but I wanted to give you all good info.

Is it my controller or did I get a bad new solenoid? How can I test my controller? Keep in mind I am handy but not an electrician by any means.

HELP!!! ;)

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lets see what the controller is or is not getting. (One wheel jacked up) Get your DVM and place the Black probe on the pack Neg and then with the key On, cart in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed far enough to hear the microswitch click, take the Red probe and check to see if you have pack voltage in the following pins at the controller: Pin 5 - Lgt Blue (must be >30v), Pin 6 - Green, Pin 8 - Brown, Pin 9 - Grey, and Pin 10 - Tan.

[movin-on]

Did you check the 15a fuse near the controller...

[ClubCarDude]

Originally Posted by movin-on

Did you check the 15a fuse near the controller...

Yes thank you and that 15amp fuse is good.

[ClubCarDude]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Lets see what the controller is or is not getting. (One wheel jacked up) Get your DVM and place the Black probe on the pack Neg and then with the key On, cart in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed far enough to hear the microswitch click, take the Red probe and check to see if you have pack voltage in the following pins at the controller: Pin 5 - Lgt Blue (must be >30v), Pin 6 - Green, Pin 8 - Brown, Pin 9 - Grey, and Pin 10 - Tan.

Hello NoleFan thank you for responding, I have seen around here that you know your stuff!

The problem is I don't know my stuff lol. I should be looking at the pins in the controller wiring harness right? Also the solenoid was getting power all the time once key is turned, not sure if that's helpful. Also I do not have a working solenoid right now. Will think affect the test?

So when pedal is depressed I don hear any microswitch click at all. Where are the microswitches, In the MCOR? I replaced the MCOR about 6 months ago.

When testing controller I should get >30v on Pin 5 but what volts on all other pins mentioned?

Thanks again!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by ClubCarDude

Hello NoleFan thank you for responding, I have seen around here that you know your stuff!

The problem is I don't know my stuff lol. I should be looking at the pins in the controller wiring harness right? Also the solenoid was getting power all the time once key is turned, not sure if that's helpful. Also I do not have a working solenoid right now. Will think affect the test?

So when pedal is depressed I don hear any microswitch click at all. Where are the microswitches, In the MCOR? I replaced the MCOR about 6 months ago.

When testing controller I should get >30v on Pin 5 but what volts on all other pins mentioned?

Thanks again!

You're looking for full battery pack voltage on all of the other pins mentioned.

[NoleFan4Ever]

You should hear a decisive click in the MCOR. But the test described above will tell us if you are not getting the trigger from the MCOR MS.

Yes, Controller Pins at the harness connector.

It will not test correctly W/O the solenoid installed as you are not powering up the trigger wires that feed back to the switch and Run/Tow.

[ClubCarDude]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

You should hear a decisive click in the MCOR. But the test described above will tell us if you are not getting the trigger from the MCOR MS.

Yes, Controller Pins at the harness connector.

It will not test correctly W/O the solenoid installed as you are not powering up the trigger wires that feed back to the switch and Run/Tow.

Ok gotcha thanks. But what if what is wrong shorted out the brand new solenoid i installed? That could just happen again to another new.solenoid right?

[ClubCarDude]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

You're looking for full battery pack voltage on all of the other pins mentioned.

Thanks TD

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by ClubCarDude

Ok gotcha thanks. But what if what is wrong shorted out the brand new solenoid i installed? That could just happen again to another new.solenoid right?

If the solenoid is still in place and the wires all connected, then the described tests will work.