Extreme Team issues - post here

[Pat911]

That seems strange, your short circuit current is set to 1000A. That’s A LOT of current, especially going down hill. I wonder if something else is going on here as I don’t believe you’re exceeding 1000A going down hill, and what happened to the other current checks on the way up to 1000A?

[shoomba]

I wonder if its actually throwing a short circuit protect, or if the app pretty much just throws that for any current related protect. Its a good point it should throw a over current at I think 600 before throwing a short circuit at 1000.

I had a couple of these incidents after I upgraded the controller but was still on lead acid, only difference is the lead acids dont have a bms to trip so after a second or two everything would just come back to life.

I'll have to get back in touch with Navitas, I was recording a log for them on this last incident, but when the BMS trips the controller obviously looses power and the Navitas app disconnects so I cant actually submit or finish the log. On the next cold snap maybe I'll try to capture an event again as that seems to be the most reliable way to get it to trip.

But in the mean time I'll just turn the controller down to 240A at least I know a little bit more about the BMS and can get back home with out a tow.

[jonr3]

The new BMS arrived today - YAY! And it's quite a bit bigger than the original one.

They included instruction sheets for the hardware and the software but I haven't had a chance to read them, and I probably won't understand it anyway...

[Pat911]

Are the BMS cell plugs the same?

[jonr3]

All of the connectors on the side match, but the two big connectors on the top are different: the old BMS has 17 pins on the left and 8 on the right; the new BMS has 15 on the left and 10 on the right. (see attached)

I think I still have the original BMS that died last year - I'll find it today and see what the connections were on it since they were different than the replacement that ET sent me last year.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by jonr3

All of the connectors on the side match, but the two big connectors on the top are different: the old BMS has 17 pins on the left and 8 on the right; the new BMS has 15 on the left and 10 on the right. (see attached)

I think I still have the original BMS that died last year - I'll find it today and see what the connections were on it since they were different than the replacement that ET sent me last year.

Since there's the same amount of physical attachment points at the cells, the new one is likely just for a higher potential amount of cells like 24. This means there will be like 4 or 8 leads all going to one or 2 negative cell terminal(s) ... So you don't have to tear into the pack if you don't want to.

[jonr3]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

Since there's the same amount of physical attachment points at the cells, the new one is likely just for a higher potential amount of cells like 24. This means there will be like 4 or 8 leads all going to one or 2 negative cell terminal(s) ... So you don't have to tear into the pack if you don't want to.

I definitely do not want to tear into the pack if I don't have to - those things scare me!

[jonr3]

Well, I just realized that the BMS I was comparing the new BMS to was actually the original BMS that died a year ago.

After comparing the new BMS to the current BMS that just died, it looks as if they are the exact same connections. YAY!

I'm guessing that I would just need to hook everything up to the new BMS just like it is to the dead BMS?

As for programming the new BMS... I have no clue.

[Pat911]

Excellent!

Connect it all up, including the B- and C- cables and try connecting with Bluetooth. Plug in the 10 pin plug (the one without the black wire) last as thats the ones that actually power up the unit. Bluetooth plugs into uart and temperature probe to NTC. Plug in new temp probe first as a reference and we’ll use it to compare to the probe buried deep in the pack.

Once you have Bluetooth connection, post screenshots of all pages and we’ll go through what you need to change. Lastly, what’s your charger voltage?

Cheers
Pat.

[jonr3]

Originally Posted by Pat911

Excellent!

Connect it all up, including the B- and C- cables and try connecting with Bluetooth. Plug in the 10 pin plug (the one without the black wire) last as thats the ones that actually power up the unit. Bluetooth plugs into uart and temperature probe to NTC. Plug in new temp probe first as a reference and we’ll use it to compare to the probe buried deep in the pack.

Once you have Bluetooth connection, post screenshots of all pages and we’ll go through what you need to change. Lastly, what’s your charger voltage?

Cheers
Pat.

Since the footprint of the new BMS is bigger, I'm going to have to reconfigure the mounting bulkhead. I already cut off the raised offsets and I will need to fabricate a couple of new ones for the BMS and the 12V reducer.

It doesn't look like it came with a new temp probe, but it does have a new BT receiver.

I have the charger that came from ET - I'll see if I can find any specs on it.