I want to learn how to maintain my EZGO (unknown model, battery and power issues)

[handtools]

Originally Posted by ballade4

Reading that I should plan to replace wiring with 4-gauge as well. Not sure if this has been done by previous owners (possibly, since they allegedly rebuilt it already), but definitely something I would plan to do in conjunction with any project to replace hardware on the cart.

If you plan on upgrading the controller and motor you might as well go with 2ga. cables from the start.

[ballade4]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Measure you battery pack voltage at least 12 after charger cuts off.

Confirming voltage, I have two batteries hovering at 6.42, one bouncing between 6.19 and 6.2, one at 6.17, and two that read 6.17 but also lower values (from high 4.x to 6.1) - possibly user error with the multimeter or cleanliness issue of the battery leads (not sure if that is a thing). I tested ~8 hours after unplugging the battery charger, will test again tomorrow after cleaning the batteries.

Not entirely sure what all of this means (does it serve to explain why the cart only runs for 10-15 minutes and at very low power?), but am eager to learn. If I need to replace batteries is it possible to mix 6 volts with 12 volts to reach 48 (in conjunction with controller upgrade)?

Originally Posted by handtools

If you plan on upgrading the controller and motor you might as well go with 2ga. cables from the start.

Acknowledged. Definitely leaning on doing the rewire just to clean out all of the crap currently in this thing, and also to build familiarity with this skillset.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by ballade4

Confirming voltage, I have two batteries hovering at 6.42, one bouncing between 6.19 and 6.2, one at 6.17, and two that read 6.17 but also lower values (from high 4.x to 6.1) - possibly user error with the multimeter or cleanliness issue of the battery leads (not sure if that is a thing). I tested ~8 hours after unplugging the battery charger, will test again tomorrow after cleaning the batteries.

See attached. Happy batteries are 6.37 volts "at rest", which is at least 12 hours after charge completion. Some of your are a little low, which "may" be corrected by balancing or charging with car charger to bring them up, then followed by back to back charging with cart charger.

Not entirely sure what all of this means (does it serve to explain why the cart only runs for 10-15 minutes and at very low power?), but am eager to learn.

You can hook up a volt meter to each battery and run up a hill and see what the voltage drops to. Repeat for all batteries. It's possible one drops lower than others, however four are at only 70% SOC,, and the other two may settle in around 6.37. Are they all the same age?

If I need to replace batteries is it possible to mix 6 volts with 12 volts to reach 48 (in conjunction with controller upgrade)?

NO. You should avoid mixing old and new, and batteries of different amp-hour rating. Batteries of different voltage will generally have different amp-hour rating.


Acknowledged. Definitely leaning on doing the rewire just to clean out all of the crap currently in this thing, and also to build familiarity with this skillset.

If you want to upgrade, most folks go with six 8 volt batteries, so you'll then need a charger, controller, upgraded FNR, solenoid, and cables.

I looked up Powertron P2000, and found this:

https://www.trojanbatterysales.com/product/11073/

This may not be correct, but I'll assume they are similar to Trojans, since they sell them. Attached is a chart based on Trojan batteries, which are 6.37 volts.

[ballade4]

Originally Posted by yurtle

See attached. Happy batteries are 6.37 volts "at rest", which is at least 12 hours after charge completion. Some of your are a little low, which "may" be corrected by balancing or charging with car charger to bring them up, then followed by back to back charging with cart charger.

Can I please get a bit more info on the underlined section? Seems like a low-hanging fruit for my system.

Originally Posted by yurtle

You can hook up a volt meter to each battery and run up a hill and see what the voltage drops to. Repeat for all batteries. It's possible one drops lower than others, however four are at only 70% SOC,, and the other two may settle in around 6.37. Are they all the same age?

Not familiar with SOC abbreviation - source of concern? I live by the coast and not a lot of hills here, aside from the hump coming into the driveway (which the cart cannot actually make over without a headstart after being driven for ~10 mins, lol). I do have the option to take the "suspect" batteries to a BatteriesPlus location near me for more extensive testing (? - not sure what they will actually do though).

Originally Posted by yurtle

NO. You should avoid mixing old and new, and batteries of different amp-hour rating. Batteries of different voltage will generally have different amp-hour rating.

10-4, thanks!

Originally Posted by yurtle

If you want to upgrade, most folks go with six 8 volt batteries, so you'll then need a charger, controller, upgraded FNR, solenoid, and cables.

I guess it depends - if we determine that 4 out of 6 batteries need replacing, this will certainly be an option that I will consider. However, if I can get some additional life out of what I have I may temper the upgrade plans and instead focus on making the changes that would be agnostic to voltage (cables, what else? upgrade controller / etc but wait on motor?).

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by ballade4

Can I please get a bit more info on the underlined section? Seems like a low-hanging fruit for my system.




Not familiar with SOC abbreviation - source of concern? I live by the coast and not a lot of hills here, aside from the hump coming into the driveway (which the cart cannot actually make over without a headstart after being driven for ~10 mins, lol). I do have the option to take the "suspect" batteries to a BatteriesPlus location near me for more extensive testing (? - not sure what they will actually do though).



10-4, thanks!




I guess it depends - if we determine that 4 out of 6 batteries need replacing, this will certainly be an option that I will consider. However, if I can get some additional life out of what I have I may temper the upgrade plans and instead focus on making the changes that would be agnostic to voltage (cables, what else? upgrade controller / etc but wait on motor?).

SOC is State of Charge, and is on the chart I attached.

First, how old are the batteries? If there aren't obvious stickers on them, go to their website and find the code. Many are stamped on one of the posts, sometimes with a number and a letter. Generally, well maintained batteries can last around five years. Some do better, others do worse.

Next, what did they settle out to, as far as voltage? Two at 100% and four at 70% seems odd for batteries that are the same age. If you want to try and see how well you can make the week ones, try charging them two at a time with a 12 volt car charger, unless you're lucky enough to have a 6 volt one, like me. No need to disconnect them, unless you can't get two in series. See if you can get the four ones closer to each other, then try several back to back charges with cart charger. Just unplug charger from cart, some chargers may need a minute, then replug, making sure charger starts again.

Depending on their age, if it's not a big deal to take all six, a dealer may be able to properly load test them and tell your their condition. Make sure they can test golf cart batteries. They are different than automotive cranking batteries.

I did all of my upgrades at once, with the exception of my motor, which wasn't really necessary, but increased speed. To go to 48 volts you'll need charger, controller, solenoid, and likely cables. Do all cables at once. If you need to defer anything, you can dial the controller amps down and upgrade the FNR later, or replace with a reversing contactor.

If you didn't find it, here's a well written explanation of what each link in the chain does:

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/upgrade-suggestions.html

Finally, I reread your first post, and you don't have to worry about any clicking or a twist test when you first turn the key on, as you have a series, not an RXV. You do not need DI water. Distilled, which is different than simply drinking water. Older batteries need watering more frequently, as does operating in warmer weather. Batteries should be charged after each and every use, or at least at the end of the day. I don't see where you ever told us tire size. Larger than stock tires pull more amps, and deplete batteries faster than stock 18" tires. To "load test" them yourself, hills are ideal, but not necessary. Connect your volt meter to each battery one at a time, and note voltage after accelerating to top speed. Repeat for each battery. This is easier if you don't have a trailer to carry cart to dealer, or if they don't have a load tester for golf cart batteries.

For you new batteries:

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-break-in-.html

[ballade4]

Awesome feedback! Tires are 23.5" (oversized, lift kit).

I do have a 12v charger. To clarify, I would connect one clamp to the the "in" post of battery A and the other clamp to the "out" post of battery B? All of the ones that were below 6.43 happen to be next to each other in sequence.

Regarding testing with volt meter as the cart reaches top speed, I have a basic Klein unit with mechanical (hand) probes - what is the best practice method / addon device to secure the probes to the battery leads without using my hands?

Will confirm the rest later today. You are awesome!!!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by ballade4

Awesome feedback! Tires are 23.5" (oversized, lift kit).

I do have a 12v charger. To clarify, I would connect one clamp to the the "in" post of battery A and the other clamp to the "out" post of battery B? All of the ones that were below 6.43 happen to be next to each other in sequence.

Regarding testing with volt meter as the cart reaches top speed, I have a basic Klein unit with mechanical (hand) probes - what is the best practice method / addon device to secure the probes to the battery leads without using my hands? Duct tape. Mine have alligator clips, but any way that will last under a minute, and is safe, in case one comes loose.

Will confirm the rest later today. You are awesome!!!

Those tires can kill your FNR and solenoid, even with a stock controller, and are a large part of why the batteries aren't lasting. Taking off with oversized tires requires a lot of torque, which means amps from the batteries. Accelerate with a light foot and they will last longer. Like a car, punching it isn't the most efficient way to get up to speed.

Is it possible the previous owner was using two circuits of two batteries - 12 volts - to run his TV and other things? That may account for weaker batteries, if they are the same age.

[bobbycason]

Originally Posted by ballade4

Regarding testing with volt meter as the cart reaches top speed, I have a basic Klein unit with mechanical (hand) probes - what is the best practice method / addon device to secure the probes to the battery leads without using my hands?

There's cheap kits out there too that come with just the wires and alligator clips that snap on to the probes, I found one the other day at dirt cheap.

[ballade4]

All - I had to table the project apart from grabbing some of the rewiring components. Did just see what looks to be a sweet deal on AGM batteries (6x 6v Leoch DTA6224s for $250 total) but they are used (were pulled out of another cart). Am told that all resting voltages are over 6.3 and that a full refund would be available if I am not satisfied (seller seems reputable) - does this seem worthwhile for short term or should I run far away and refocus on the more expensive, time-consuming but ultimately more rewarding reconfig to 48v?

[ballade4]

bumping for attention (sorry if not allowed)