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Old 12-08-2019, 06:04 PM   #1
4U2NVME
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Default 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Hello,

I have a 1981 36 Volt Club Car. I got it as a "mechanic's special" I diagnosed a few things and have it kinda working.

I figured that I had some bad Speed Control Solenoids so I ordered a set. Long story short I figured the ones I ordered came dead, because when I replaced them they did not work. I tested my old Solenoids and a few of them did work so I replaced them back.

What voltage should I bet getting along the low amperage posts, the ones that the activation signal comes down ,the small low amperage side... I assume 12 volts as that is what is currently present when I test the ones in the cart.

The replacements ones don't seem to work on 12 volt, but on a hunch I tested them with 36 volts ( low amperage side small post side) and they did close and give me continuity.

Should my trigger wire for each solenoid be 12 volt or 36 volt?
The current solenoids in my car, 3 are firing on a 12 volt signal, but now none of my 10 new ones ( yes two orders ) will fire on a 12 volt signal, but they seem to want a 36 volt signal.

If they need 36 volts, where do I trace the feed line back to, and how do I get it 36 volts...

TIA

-NV
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:13 PM   #2
Mooncarter
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

First thing. How old are your batteries and the voltage of the pack?
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:13 PM   #3
nickdalzell1
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

The 5 solenoid system is perhaps the WORST design Club Car has done. (I would argue the hydraulic brakes on the Caroches as well but i digress)

If so much as ONE dies, the car only clicks and won't go. It's like christmas lights. You must find out which one is the bad one and replace it. Or you could go crazy and replace all 5 and it would work.

Activation coils are 36V. Grounded in daisy chain fashion to main B-, B+ goes to pedal group, to key switch to solenoid activation microswitches which then go to the positive side of the coil. Diodes/resistors are not required. Solenoids are NOT polarity-sensitive so you can use either one of the smaller terminals for the daisy-chained ground or positive activation.

FYI there's a cable going from one of the middle batteries to the F/N/R switch. Take that and put it on the main B+ battery (the same one that goes to the charger + and motor/etc) and you will have full speed reverse. Many complain about how slow it is in reverse if the half-speed is left alone--plus it can cause battery imbalance.
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:18 PM   #4
4U2NVME
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooncarter View Post
First thing. How old are your batteries and the voltage of the pack?
Batteries are brand new... fully charged.. as in 2 months old :) Those were one of the things I replaced... I think the full pack is 37 and change for voltage..
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:21 PM   #5
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdalzell1 View Post

Activation coils are 36V. Grounded in daisy chain fashion to main B-, B+ goes to pedal group, to key switch to solenoid activation microswitches which then go to the positive side of the coil.
So the Key switch... in my case a pull switch, should have 36 volts at it as well and not 12? I follow the key side back to the battery bank and pull it from the 36 volt location, and move it from the 12 volt location ( if that is where the last guy hooked it up )
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:25 PM   #6
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdalzell1 View Post
Activation coils are 36V. Grounded in daisy chain fashion to main B-, B+ goes to pedal group,
.
So the silver box where my 5 micro switches are, is that the pedal group you are saying? Where the plastic slider is that has the 5 sloped fingers that activate in order as you press down the accelerator..is that where I want my 36 v feed line?
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:32 PM   #7
nickdalzell1
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

yes that 'tube' is the pedal group switch cluster on these old cars. There should be wires going to each solenoid of various colors. There's also one specific wire that goes to the F/N/R microswitches to lock out neutral and that also has one going to the key switch and key switch to battery main + 36V. It's a 36V key switch. All solenoids should be 36V. Someone should be able to post a diagram. Every time i do it just blows up super large. I can't use photobucket any longer to link images since they require paid subscription to post.
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:46 PM   #8
4U2NVME
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Thank you Nick!! I'll wait and see if somebody can post a pic for me... or is there a thread that would be a good one where it may already be?
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:54 PM   #9
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

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Old 12-08-2019, 08:13 PM   #10
4U2NVME
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Default Re: 36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

Thank you, so the yellow line I pull it off the forward/reverse slide switch, on the 36 volt terminal then?
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