TXT Series - intermittent Operation

[davewhirlwind]

Got a 2006 Series EZGO about 6 months ago.
Recently a problem just started where occasionally when you depress the pedal the solenoid clicks but the cart doesn't move. Trying to debug it using the excellent information on this site, but since it only happens once and a while, it's a bear to make the measurements. Just when you start measuring it starts working again.
Started carrying my DVM around the neighborhood with me!!

Wiggling the FNR switch, doesn't seem to make a difference.
If I just repeatably push the pedal eventually it starts.

So I guess the possibilities are;
1) bad throttle sensor.(think I ruled this out got 0-1.5v once while it wasn't working)
2) Intermittent Solenoid.
3) Bad controller
4) Motor issue.

Anybody seen anything like this?
Any guesses as to where I should focus??

Thanks in advance
Dave

[scottyb]

Welcome to BGW
NICE 1st post, very easy to read and follow whats happening.


Could be an intermittent (about to quit) micro switch (ms) at the gas peddle box.
As with all intermittent problems you can only test when they don't work.
Test for solenoid activation when it won't go. You should read pack voltage across the 2 small terminals on the solenoid when you press the gas. If not present suspect the activation circuit and its key switch and micro switches.

If 36v is present at the 2 small posts and the solenoid does not click it has failed.

[davewhirlwind]

Scotty, Thanks for the response.

The solenoid does click when the cart is not working.

Dave
PS Your site has been very helpful as well.

[JohnnieB]

This is one of those situations where one of Scotty's DVM Battery meter comes in very handy for monitoring voltages someplace other than just across the battery pack.

But you can do it with a handheld DVM and some alligator clips also.

Connect the Negative test lead to the B- terminal on controller.
Connect the Positive test lead to M- terminal on controller.

When solenoid clicks, you should have full battery pack voltage.
If not, there is an open somewhere in the high current loop.

If so, press pedal further down and the voltage should decrease to zero.
If it doesn't, it is either the controller or the ITS.

Note: If you have a pre-charge resistor across the large solenoid terminals, you will read a few volts less than fully battery pack voltage before the solenoid clicks.
However, we are only interested in what the voltage is after the solenoid clicks.

[davewhirlwind]

Great have the DVM clipped on and just went a ride. It only failed once and I think the DVM registered 0.0 independent of pedal position. but I didn't get a good look at it before it started working again.

If that doesn't make sense will keep trying.

What the easiest way to inspect the throttle sensor?

Dave
If I get to be an expert in this do I have to change my screen name to davieb(humor)

Also once I get this fixed interested in your 42 v mod never heard that choice before.

[JohnnieB]

If the DVM read 0.0 with pedal up and pre-charge resistor installed, there is an open somewhere in the high current cables and their connections, the F/R switch contacts, or the motor.

Here is a schematic with high current loop highlighted.

-----------
The ITS looks the same whether it is working or not and there is no easy way to monitor the ITS voltage. I've never tried it on a cart, but I have slid the stripped end of a short piece of small solid copper hookup wire (about 24Ga) into the back side of that type plug, looped it down the plug body and taped it in place, giving me somewhere to clip my meter lead to.
----------
Yep. 42V is a little bit odd, but so am I.

Both the controller and solenoid I have work at 36V, 42V or 48V and the seventh 6V battery fits in the empty space under the driver seat.

My goal is range (run-time) rather than speed or torque, so it was a matter of how many kWh of storage capacity I could carry with me and keep everything under the seat.

If need be, I'll relocate the controller and add an eighth battery under the passenger seat and run at 48V. (I have a PDS, so there isn't a F/R switch in that space to contend with)

[yurtle]

Pull each an every high current connection off, inspect, clean, and re-tighten. Be careful not to over tighten battery lugs. After that, it could possibly be solenoid - I've melted the guts of mine so it clicked but didn't make contact, and maybe FNR.

[canelshop]

Have the same problem. Have you been able to fix it yet? If so, What did you do?

[Fireman 069]

I have a 2000 EZGO txt. I took the cart apart this winter to paint the frame and body (which worked fine before taking it apart). Putting it back together I put one of the batteries in backwards. Not know that, I went to charge the batteries the (new) charger would not work. So I got on line to find out if there was a way to test the charger which there was and I jumped it and it worked. so I charged the batteries. after charging them I went o drive the cart and it moved forward and quit running. So I was going back thru all my steps and found the one battery backwards. After fixing it the charger then worked on its own. But he cart would not work.

Started doing other test.
1.Controller tested bad so I replaced it!
2.Throttle switch tested bad so I replaced it!

Cart started to move forward and backwards and that's it. (this is on a jack)

Any help would be great! Trying to go camping this weekend :(

[scottyb]

If the wheels spin F&R it sounds like you have everything hooked up correctly now, have you tried running it? What is the battery pack voltage now?