79 ez go internal starter generator

[Sometim'er]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

I'm not definite on this regulator,but on the mechanical regulators on cars they needed to be jumped initially(Polarized) to get them to operate.You would jump a wire across 2-terminals quickly,and it would function normally afterwards.It was common to have to redo it if battery power was removed from it for any reason.You would jump from battery to Field on the regulator.Maybe someone else will see this,and verify.Hope this helps.

Thank you

[Sometim'er]

Originally Posted by cart around

Does your voltage regulator have 4 wires connecting to it? I read on here somewhere about converting those over to a 3 wire, but I'm not familiar with it. My understanding is that it's impossible to find a 4 wire replacement.



My regulator has 3 wires. The middle connector on mine has the green wire that goes to the generator.

I did find the link to converting to a 3 wire and will utilize that if it turns out to be the voltage regulator as you are correct I do not find any regulators like mine nor the blocking switch which protects the solenoid in case of moving F/R before coming to a complete stop.
(Its located on the same plate as the voltage regulator)
In fact I am finding it is difficult to find many of the parts for a 79 gas ez go.

[Sometim'er]

Originally Posted by jeffrun

If you go to link below,its a bgw thread and has your wiring diagram and test procedure. The second thread by 1989 narathon,ref to manual link. hope this helps,.look in H section.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...r-problem.html

Thank you.

[Sometim'er]

1979 Voltage Regulator/Blocking Relay replacement

Postby thoug » Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:13 am

My charging system has been non-functional for quite some time, so I finally decided to put my Electrical Engineering degree to work and do something about it! I did some research on this forum and elsewhere and picked up a voltage regulator for an '80s model cart (Marathon? sorry I don't know the other cart models). I had seen references on this forum to updating the voltage regulator, but not any explicit instructions. So, I thought I would post the details here so that they may benefit someone else.

This cart has the voltage regulator and blocking relay combined into a single assembly that bolts to the "firewall". My research showed that the original voltage regulator and blocking relay have been unavailable for many years. The blocking relay cuts out the solenoid to prevent huge currents if the F/R is switched with out completely stopping. This is easy to bypass if it hasn't been bypassed already. Or, you can leave it in place and just add the new voltage regulator.

The new voltage regulator has three terminals labeled D+, DF and D-.
The old voltage regulator has four terminals labelled F, E, B and A.
Here's how to connect the new regulator:
1) Yellow wire from F now connects to DF on the new regulator. This is the field circuit.
2) Black ground wire from E now connects to D-. Mine was grounded to the engine case.
3) Three wires from the A terminal connect to the D+ on the new regulator. Two of these are red and the third is a short wire that connects to the blocking relay. If you're removing the blocking relay, then this third wire can be ignored (thrown out with the blocking relay).
4) Remove the black wire from the B terminal up to the ignition switch it's no longer needed.

Assuming you want to get rid of the blocking relay also:
1)Cut the red/black wire and the yellow wire to the relay, and then just splice the two ends together. This yellow wire should come from the coil, not the F/R switch.

That's all there is to it!
My system now charges at 14-15 volts and only drops to about 13.6 when the engine is near idle speed.

I hope this helps some one else in the future!

Todd

[cart around]

It's always nice to see information flow, and things come together.

[1fast67]

How are the brushes? It won't charge with worn down brushes. Just a thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sometim'er]

Been through the cart multiple times now.
Brushes are good.
(Starter works fantastic)
(Cart runs great)

I start at 12.90 in battery before
Turning it on.
Once I start it....
It drops to 11.8-11.98
As I accelerate it runs anywheres
From 12.05 to 12.20
But gets no higher than 12.20
I have tried a new voltage regulator.
I have checked the stator and field
I have basic wire inspections
I find nothing cracked or broken
or dirty or corroded.
I am stumped!!!!

[WILLD420]

Sounds like the gen isn't making the voltage. I would suspect something in the windings if everything else has checked out. How about the charging wire? If it has a bad spot in it, or it's too corroded to transfer the amps things will never work right.

[Sometim'er]

That's the green one right??
If it had something to do with the windings
Wouldn't that also effect the starter since
The starter and generator are one and the same

[howie97]

Hello, I know this us an old post but I have the same issue. My basket case is up and running but not charging. I did not have the old regulator or blocking relay or the charging circuit control switch. I have an internal starter generator and there are 4 wires coming from it on top of the 3 to control f&r. Black which goes to my coil, red I put on D+, yellow I put on DF and I ran a ground to to D- which leaves me a lt blue/lt green open. But it still is not charging. What are the correct wires to go where they need to be. Thank you in advance.