1994 Electric Club Car DS may be from Hell

[dkrassop]

Hi Everyone,

I've been a lurker for quite a few years, always found what I needed and really feel like I know a lot of you from all the posts I've read. My story begins at the end of last summer. With my daughter turning 16 in June, I was looking to purchase a decent project cart that we could work on together through the Winter. A few doors down from my camp, an older couple decided to sell their 1994 36v Club Car DS because they purchased a newer one. The cart had brand new batteries, but definitely needed some work (brakes, v-glide, key switch, etc...), but it ran just fine. It's a beige color and my daughter wanted white with some cool vinyl graphics so we added that to the list. Anyways...we got working on it in January and we are now in May, the cart looks great, but not really running. Below is what I replaced:

* V-Glide (with discrete resistors) and cover as old one was duck taped and contacts and arm were very worn
* All new microswitches (V-Glide & FNR switches)
* Key Switch
* Solenoid with new resistor and diode
* All new 4 gauge cables
* New brakes and drums

We put it all back together and it did not move in forward or reverse on jack stands. I have the solenoid click every time, but nothing. I then went over all the cables making sure they were connected correctly and tight. Checked all the micros switches with a DVM and they checked out. Checked throttle input from the black and white wires (J2&J3) on the controller side and that checked out (0ohms to 4817 ohms). I also checked them coming out of the V-glide and again all was good. Battery pack is 38.2, individual batteries each were 6.38 - 6.40. I then turned my attention to the things I didn't touch such as the Controller, FNR Rotary Switch/Assembly and the motor. I went through the motor polarity tests, FNR polarity tests and even did the jumper cable on M- & B- just to make sure the motor was fine. All passed. Tested the new solenoid with and without Resistor and Diode and that was all good. I then turned my attention to the Controller. I pulled it down from underneath (PITA without an access panel) and noticed it was a curtis 1204-027 400amp FSIP rebuilt controller (0-5k), which is different from the listed stock controller in the service manual. I decided to purchase another rebuilt one from FSIP and send mine in to remove the Core charge. I know some of you are thinking "man, why didn't you just replace it with Alltrax or Navitas, lol", I didn't because it's my daughter's first cart and didn't feel it was necessary. New rebuilt 400 amp 1204-027 came in a few days later and I went to work, anxious to finally hear the wheels turn on their own when I hit the gas. I got nothin' in forward or reverse. In gear, I would reach back and spin the wheels by hand while hitting the gas pedal and it would turn a few revolutions very slow (minimal power) on it's own and stop. I figured it has to be something on the high amp side, but I can't figure it out. I watched the club car ds youtube troubleshooting video that was posted on this site and "most" everything checked out. The oddity was when I put the DVM leads on M- and B-, turn the key on, put it in forward to measure volts, I get full battery pack voltage when the solenoid clicks, but it doesn't go down to 0 when I press the pedal all the way down, it stays at pack voltage. I go back to reading on the forum and figured I would measure the individual battery voltage again and see if any of them drop with key on and in gear. I attached the alligator clips to the DVM leads and I'm three batteries in, hit the pedal and hear the motor and wheel turn fast for the first time since January. In my mind, I'm literally saying "Holy Sh*t, what did I do" and my daughter says "YES" out loud, lol. I look around and noticed the other end of the alligator clip that I attached to DVM black lead was resting on the top of the orange cable where the end attaches to the FNR rotary switch. I pull it off, back to nothing, I put it back and it runs again. I honestly don't know what that means. It looks like the original FNR switch with the pin in the middle (no bolt). I took it apart, check for burning, cleaned the contacts and put it back together, still no go. The contacts on the rotary didn't have a lot of meat/copper left on them, but it looked like it was still making good contact.

Sorry for the long post, but I could definitely use some help. I'm not sure if I need a new FNR Assembly or if it's something else. Thank you in advance for your help. I've definitely hit a wall.

-Dean

[dkrassop]

After having some time to think about it, I realize that with the DVM lead touching the FNR rotary cable, it was supplying power to the FNR, which obviously made the wheels spin as I pushed on the gas. Either I have some of the worst luck and received a bad rebuilt controller or the FNR Switch assembly is shot. I also ran across one of Sergio's old posts below and followed the instructions. The tests all checked out (36v instead of 48v as the post lists)

Raise one of the rear wheels OFF the ground.

Put the FNR in Neutral.


Do You have +48v at the Key switch Green wire?
If not, check the green wire back to the Solenoid big post on the battery side.

Turn the Key switch ON.


Do You have +48v in the Blue wire at the key switch?
If not, the key switch is bad.

Press the pedal (keep it pressed for the remaining tests).


Do You have +48v at the Green/White wire on micro-switch #1?
If not, the pedal micro-switch is bad.

Put the FNR in forward.


Do You have +48v at the White/black wire on micro-switch #1?
if not, the micro-switch is bad or wired incorrectly.

Measure the voltage from Solenoid small post with White/black and Red wires to pack negative.


Do You have +48v?
if not, check wiring from micros-switch to solenoid.

Measure voltage between both Solenoids small posts.



If anyone has any ideas, I'm wide open.

Thank You,

Dean

[dkrassop]

Hi everyone.

Sorry to be a pain, but still looking for ideas. Does anyone know the electrical/current flow for this cart? Meaning, Key Switch-->FNR-->V-Glide (resistors on back)-->Solenoid-->Controller? Thus far the tests I've done is leaning towards a bad controller because that's where I had the anomaly measuring voltage from M- & B- and getting 38.2 when the solenoid clicks and it stays there, never goes to 0 when the pedal is fully depressed. I've double-checked all the cables and wires to the micro switches and it all checks out fine. It just feels like I'm missing something...maybe because I can't come to grips that two controllers would be bad? I figure if I know the current/electrical path, I can use my DVM to measure volts from start to finish.

Thanks again.

Dean

[Bama Brad]

I can't help you but replying so that it will come back to the top...hang in there, someone will be along soon.

[dkrassop]

Thanks Bama Brad. @Scottyb - It's probably time to go with your SR48400/200/HD F&R package and put this to bed. Let me know if you don't think it will work in my cart.

-Dean

[simicrintz]

You may try and call Scotty, Dean. He may not see this as quickly as you'd like and it may delay your (and your daughters!) fun! Good luck!!!

[dkrassop]

Thanks Scotty! Believe me, I've learned my lesson with FSIP...I could have built 3 carts from the ground up with all the time I wasted. These carts are not that complicated, but still had me doubting myself...not anymore my friend. You sold me on Alltrax SR48500 control and the MZJ400A solenoid, with an HD F&R. You are correct, it will allow me to upgrade in the future with a better motor and converting to 48v. My other cart is a 48v beast, but the 36v cart was such a good deal (hmm...not sure anymore, lol), I couldn't pass it up. It was a great experience for my daughter and I, she now knows how much work goes into it so I'm hoping it translates into better care for the cart. I'll hit you up on email.

Thanks again,

Dean