Driven Clutch Bolt 94 Cart

[Turn Two]

Through searches I have found the the later cart Driven Clutch bolts are reverse threads, but the replacement bolt for the 94 only says 5/16 x 18 x .75. Is it right hand or left hand thread?

Thanks,
Michael~

[lockman1]

All CC driven clutches are righty/tighty (standard) threads,
CC drive clutch bolts will have reverse threads on 97+ carts!

[Turn Two]

Originally Posted by lockman1

All CC driven clutches are righty/tighty (standard) threads,
CC drive clutch bolts will have reverse threads on 97+ carts!

Thanks for the explanation. Now to figure out why I cannot get a 5/16x18 tap into the shaft. There has not been a bolt in the clutch since I bought the cart three years ago! Maybe I need a bigger hammer? :^( I have to access threads before I can put a puller on!

Michael~

[lockman1]

CC driven (rear) clutches are a straight shaft with a woodruff key, and it's "supposed to" just slide off without a puller.
On my buddies 94, the driven clutch was so rusted/corroded on that
we beat on that thing for hours to try to get it to slide off, until we just gave up!

I've heard of many who have had a broken bolt in the shaft, or have had to destroy their driven clutch to replace it.
Whatever you do... don't pry between the clutch and the transmission, it may crack the trans case!

Best of luck!

[gatesjunior]

Yes, try not to pry behind it for sure. Also, make sure you spray the ^hit out of it with some kind of Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil or something like it and let it set for about 30 minutes or so and if needed, hit it again with some more to help break the rust up.

[Turn Two]

Thanks guys. I have the shaft soaked with Kroil now... will add more later. I actually put a ball joint tool in the space between the clutch and tranny and then thought: "Three things can happen and TWO are bad." I'm thinking about using heat directly on each end of the clutch. I would remove the belt... put the tranny in neutral and use a propane torch while rotating the clutch to get it warm/hot all the way around. If that doesn't work, I am stuck (pun intended). the clutch spring and the ramp slides all need replacing...

I know the clutch is aluminum so it should expand more... and faster than the steel shaft... and I don't see anything else heat would hurt (except the slides)... but they are pretty much history anyway.

I'll let you know what happens with the kroil/heat approach. Thanks for the advice.

[gatesjunior]

Originally Posted by Turn Two

Thanks guys. I have the shaft soaked with Kroil now... will add more later. I actually put a ball joint tool in the space between the clutch and tranny and then thought: "Three things can happen and TWO are bad." I'm thinking about using heat directly on each end of the clutch. I would remove the belt... put the tranny in neutral and use a propane torch while rotating the clutch to get it warm/hot all the way around. If that doesn't work, I am stuck (pun intended). the clutch spring and the ramp slides all need replacing...

I know the clutch is aluminum so it should expand more... and faster than the steel shaft... and I don't see anything else heat would hurt (except the slides)... but they are pretty much history anyway.

I'll let you know what happens with the kroil/heat approach. Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, my only concern with too much heat would be seals. You can definitely give it a little "nudge" from behind, just be very careful with this. Also, if you can get enough angle on the tool, try and angle a tool on the back of the clutch and smack it a few times in different spots to help nudge it along, as long as you intend on replacing it anyway.