If its not the solenoid?.....

roady89 · 07-22-2007, 01:12 PM

Ok...just a rundown of the events so I can be sure what happened.

1. It was running fine untill you went to load it. Cart just stopped dead.....no rattles from solenoid
2. You checked all the connections and cleaned them. Physically removing them and putting them back on.
3. Now the solenoid rattles. replaced solenoid and it still rattles
4. All connections and the coils are good but it still rattles.

Is this correct?

Rmvr53 · 07-22-2007, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roady89

Ok...just a rundown of the events so I can be sure what happened.

1. It was running fine untill you went to load it. Cart just stopped dead.....no rattles from solenoid
2. You checked all the connections and cleaned them. Physically removing them and putting them back on.
3. Now the solenoid rattles. replaced solenoid and it still rattles
4. All connections and the coils are good but it still rattles.

Is this correct?

yup - even replaced a battery cable that might be questionable but made no difference in the end...

roady89 · 07-22-2007, 01:43 PM

Somewhere between number 2 and 3 something happened. You had a bad connection and you fixed the problem and in the process got 1 mixed up somehow. If the solenoid wasn't rattling before and now it is something could have easily been misplaced.

Take a look at this diagram and compare.

Rmvr53 · 07-22-2007, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roady89

Somewhere between number 2 and 3 something happened. You had a bad connection and you fixed the problem and in the process got 1 mixed up somehow. If the solenoid wasn't rattling before and now it is something could have easily been misplaced.

Take a look at this diagram and compare.

ok...everything looks similar. I do have a question tho. There is a reed switch of sorts between 3rd leg of the micro-switch on the wiper and F/R switch that is rusty as heck. Does it do anything?

roady89 · 07-22-2007, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmvr53

ok...everything looks similar. I do have a question tho. There is a reed switch of sorts between 3rd leg of the micro-switch on the wiper and F/R switch that is rusty as heck. Does it do anything?

Reed switch? not on that year. Could it be a diode? Shouldn't cause the solenoid to rattle anyways. Check all your micros while you are messing with it. Make sure they click nice. Even if a micro does click it doesn't mean they are good.

Rmvr53 · 07-22-2007, 09:08 PM

finally had time this evening to get proactive here...took a pair of jumper wires straight from + and - of the 36 volt pack to the hot and ground of the solinoid. It rattles. No other load on it. Whats the possibility I have 36 volts but an amp problem?...or 36.1 volts total is a problem?....or a bad new solinoid?

Bill

roady89 · 07-22-2007, 10:03 PM

By hot and ground do you mean the small terminals on the solenoid? It doesn't matter on the volts/amps thing....unless you have ALOT OF VOLTS AND AMPS. But thats not the problem. The solenoid rattling like that usually means you have a wrong connection or a dead short. Whats happening is the solenoid is closing and its connecting pos to neg and freaking out. I bet if you keep the solenoid engage for a few seconds it gets really hot?

Rmvr53 · 07-22-2007, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roady89

By hot and ground do you mean the small terminals on the solenoid? It doesn't matter on the volts/amps thing....unless you have ALOT OF VOLTS AND AMPS. But thats not the problem. The solenoid rattling like that usually means you have a wrong connection or a dead short. Whats happening is the solenoid is closing and its connecting pos to neg and freaking out. I bet if you keep the solenoid engage for a few seconds it gets really hot?

yes on the small terminals on solinoid. Wasn't really touching it and not leaving it hooked up for long to tell if it got hot. Usually on a car solinoid, you put 12 volts across the two small terminals and it just slams shut is why I did this lil test. Since it isn't "closing" and staying that way, you think Im not getting 36 volts across it?

roady89 · 07-22-2007, 10:16 PM

If you went from the +36 and the -36 on the pack then its getting 36 volts. Take one of the big cables off the solenoid and it see if it rattles. take the side off that goes to the F/R switch.

Rmvr53 · 07-22-2007, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roady89

If you went from the +36 and the -36 on the pack then its getting 36 volts. Take one of the big cables off the solenoid and it see if it rattles. take the side off that goes to the F/R switch.

too dark now but will in the morning....

thanks again for your help

Bill

07-22-2007, 01:12 PM	#11
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024	Re: If its not the solinoid?..... Ok...just a rundown of the events so I can be sure what happened. 1. It was running fine untill you went to load it. Cart just stopped dead.....no rattles from solenoid 2. You checked all the connections and cleaned them. Physically removing them and putting them back on. 3. Now the solenoid rattles. replaced solenoid and it still rattles 4. All connections and the coils are good but it still rattles. Is this correct?
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024

07-22-2007, 09:08 PM	#16
Rmvr53 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 13	Re: If its not the solinoid?..... finally had time this evening to get proactive here...took a pair of jumper wires straight from + and - of the 36 volt pack to the hot and ground of the solinoid. It rattles. No other load on it. Whats the possibility I have 36 volts but an amp problem?...or 36.1 volts total is a problem?....or a bad new solinoid? Bill
Rmvr53 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 13

07-22-2007, 10:03 PM	#17
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024	Re: If its not the solinoid?..... By hot and ground do you mean the small terminals on the solenoid? It doesn't matter on the volts/amps thing....unless you have ALOT OF VOLTS AND AMPS. But thats not the problem. The solenoid rattling like that usually means you have a wrong connection or a dead short. Whats happening is the solenoid is closing and its connecting pos to neg and freaking out. I bet if you keep the solenoid engage for a few seconds it gets really hot?
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024

07-22-2007, 10:16 PM	#19
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024	Re: If its not the solinoid?..... If you went from the +36 and the -36 on the pack then its getting 36 volts. Take one of the big cables off the solenoid and it see if it rattles. take the side off that goes to the F/R switch.
roady89 nimda Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 13,024

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