1998 club car powerdrive plus won't run

[wishmasstir]

I'm helping someone with a 98 club car powerdrive plus. It wont do anything when I press the gas pedal. No solenoid clicks or anything. I jumped the motor to a 12v and it does work. The batteries are charged at 50.8 volts. I ordered a solenoid as the bench test failed on the small terminals to where I wasnt getting ohms between them. The solenoid with coiled resister seems okay.

Is there anything else to look at once I replace this solenoid? Can you test the computer or controller?

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[Fairtax4me]

Even if the primary solenoid is bad, you should still hear the dynamic brake solenoid click when you press the pedal.

It’s possible the OBC has failed and is not giving power to the solenoids. Check for 48v reaching the small terminals at the solenoids with the Tow run switch in Run. The TR switch gives command to the OBC to turn on, and the OBC provides power to solenoids, FnR switch and a few pins on the controller to activate the drive system.
If you have no voltage at the solenoid small terminals, check for 48v on the White wire at the OBC 6 pin connector.
Then check for 48v on the Blue wire at the OBC connector.
White is power going in to tell it to turn on. Blue is power coming out for solenoids, etc.
There May be a fuse on the Red wire going to the OBC connector. If there is you should check that as well.
Basically if you have 48v on the white wire, but none on the blue wire, the OBC is probably failed.

Tow run switch also provides 48v for the Green wire at the key switch. So if the above checks out you can check for pack voltage reaching the key switch on the green and make sure the Blue wire at the key switch gets 48v with key On.

This should be the correct diagram for your cart: http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg

[wishmasstir]

Thanks, I'll take a look this Thursday and reply back with what I find

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[wishmasstir]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Even if the primary solenoid is bad, you should still hear the dynamic brake solenoid click when you press the pedal.

It’s possible the OBC has failed and is not giving power to the solenoids. Check for 48v reaching the small terminals at the solenoids with the Tow run switch in Run. The TR switch gives command to the OBC to turn on, and the OBC provides power to solenoids, FnR switch and a few pins on the controller to activate the drive system.
If you have no voltage at the solenoid small terminals, check for 48v on the White wire at the OBC 6 pin connector.
Then check for 48v on the Blue wire at the OBC connector.
White is power going in to tell it to turn on. Blue is power coming out for solenoids, etc.
There May be a fuse on the Red wire going to the OBC connector. If there is you should check that as well.
Basically if you have 48v on the white wire, but none on the blue wire, the OBC is probably failed.

Tow run switch also provides 48v for the Green wire at the key switch. So if the above checks out you can check for pack voltage reaching the key switch on the green and make sure the Blue wire at the key switch gets 48v with key On.

So I replaced the faulty solenoid and then checked everything you mentioned previously.

I'm not getting the 48v at the small terminals at the solenoids with the Tow run switch in Run.
I am getting 48v on the White wire at the OBC 6 pin connector.
I'm NOT getting 48v on the Blue wire at the OBC connector.
All Fuses are good.

I have 48v at the Green wire at the key switch.
The Blue wire at the key switch gets 48v with key On.

Could it be anything other than the OBC? What other test can be done to verify?

[Fairtax4me]

Only other thing to check would be the Red wire a the OBC. On some of the later regen 2 carts there is a fuse inline to check, but it should be near the OBC if I remember right. The earlier carts did not have a fuse on the red wire.
Check the red wire for 48V reaching the OBC. If you have 48v there, the OBC has failed.

Jumper White and Blue wires on the OBC side of the harness, and you should get power to the solenoids, and the cart should operate.

The OBC is required for the Powerdrive charger to work. You can either replace the OBC, or upgrade to a new smart charger.

[wishmasstir]

Which smart charger would you recommend to convert to?

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[wishmasstir]

If bypassing white and blue just sends power to the solenoid, cant I just jump across the large solenoid posts and simulate the same thing?

I just tried jumping the one solenoid and I can get a reverse buzzer sound but no movement still.

How do I actually jump the white and blue to verify the obc is faulty?

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[Fairtax4me]

The blue wire from the OBC sends out power to multiple different parts, so just jumping one solenoid doesn’t provide power everywhere it’s supposed to be.

The best thing is to just cut the Blue and White wires on the OBC side of the harness and crimp female spade terminals on the ends that go to the plug. Stick a 10 amp fuse in the spade terminals. Or use a 20amp weatherproof inline fuse holder and butt connectors to join the two wires. Again using a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder.

[wishmasstir]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

The blue wire from the OBC sends out power to multiple different parts, so just jumping one solenoid doesn’t provide power everywhere it’s supposed to be.

The best thing is to just cut the Blue and White wires on the OBC side of the harness and crimp female spade terminals on the ends that go to the plug. Stick a 10 amp fuse in the spade terminals. Or use a 20amp weatherproof inline fuse holder and butt connectors to join the two wires. Again using a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder.

Perfect, thanks. I'll do this in the morning and see what I come up with.

[wishmasstir]

okay this is perfect, everything worked as it should once I jumped those wires.

So now, should I just replace the OBC or do the smart charger system? Which smart charger would you recommend and is there a wiring harness or anything additional that is required? I keep seeing this Lester Summit Series II when I search