Club Car Won't go, no click

[Jack563]

I have a 36 volt 1992 Club Car. On the way home from Church today I stopped to pick something up off the road and the golf cart would not go. no clicking nothing will not move F or R. I towed it home. Did some trouble shooting and found that if I jumped the solenoid from the little post to the big post coming from the battery. Got a click sound, placed it in forward and the cart moved. Is the solenoid bad or is something else the problem. Read something about a reed switch? Ant help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Htownblue]

Check your battery voltages first. Give it full charge. Check your key to make,sure it's on. Then try again.

[scottyb]

Nice cart if solid state. Trouble shooting should be about the same for resistor and solid state solenoid activation this year.

The trouble is in the solenoid activation circuit as you confirmed with the jumper test B+ to small post. That small post gets B+ through a series of switches to activate the coil. In the following order.
1. Keyswitch
2. F&R micro switch ( most forward switch of the 3)
3. Vglide micro switch

If the keyswitch supply or any one of these 3 switches fail the solenoid will not activate and the cart will not go.

[Jack563]

Thanks, Scotty,
I tested the voltage at the switch. Off, no power, ON I got full 36 volts. There are 3 micro switches. Whats the best way to test them. Check for power in and power out? There is something that looks like a really big resistor on one of the micro switch connection going to the speed controller. What could that be? Thanks again. Do you want a picture of it?

[Volt_Ampere]

Your solenoid is ok since it worked when you bypassed the switches. It is probably the switch down by the pedal.

[Jack563]

OK, Maybe I'm on to something. Checked the V-guide for power and I did not have anything, 0 volts. I removed one battery to get to the v-guide and I removed the micro switch and I jumped the wires. I got voltage at the V-guide post. I'm going to the golf cart place to purchase a micro switch. Thanks a lot guys in advance. After I put the switch I'll let you know. Hey bartender set the place up on me one time.

[tag50]

Testing F+R micro switch (the one closest to the F+R body)-with F+R in neutral disconnect both m/s wires, attach meter leads to m/s lugs, with meter set for ohms trigger the m/s with your finger.

Testing V-glide M/S- disconnect green wire of the F+R m/s, disconnect small green wire from the large post of the solenoid, attach meter that's set for ohms the green wires, trigger gas pedal. NOTE- key switch must be in the ON position for this test.

The m/s that has the resistor is only for 1/2 speed reverse. Working or not, it has no bearing on a no-go status.

If the pack voltage is just 36 volts it is considered dead. Scotty would know better than I if a low voltage cut-off by the controller is involved.

PS- late post again lol. In my defense, my test doesn't require battery removal.
.

[Jack563]

oh Lord it is tough to be humble when you're perfect in every way...... That was the problem. I replaced the micro switch in the V- Glide and everything is working just fine. Thanks guys, I didn't even know what a V-Glide was until I got on this forum. You all made it real easy. God Bless all of you Thanks again.


Jack Bobeck

[tag50]

Mac Davis fan?? Or good long-term memory?? Glad you found the trouble maker.

And welcome to BGW


.

[Volt_Ampere]

The great advantage of this forum is that there are a bunch of folks that have been there - done that. I love the internet! I have solved a bunch of problems by finding someone else out there that already has been there - done that.