Headlights out

[hmsnider]

I get 0 Volts at both red to yellow and black to black with the DVM on 20V and 2V scale. I also put in an analog meter and got zero needle swing.Guess my converter is bad. Right?

[hmsnider]

4x12 Trojans

One of the blacks go to bat#4 -. The red goes to #3 +

you have a 24v to 12v converter
yes if no volts are on black harness and yellow wires

if you use a wire to jump #4 battery positive to your yellow wire ( disconnected from converter ) you should get lights

[hmsnider]

4 x 12 Trojans t1275. But I checked again:
Black to black=0 Volts
Red to yellow=38 V
Yellow to black= 11.9 v
Total pack is 50.3

Originally Posted by hmsnider

Yellow to black= 11.9 v

that's good
check for a fuse inline on the yellow wire

Originally Posted by hmsnider

Red to yellow=38 V

that makes no sense

Originally Posted by hmsnider

Total pack is 50.3

about 85%

[BobBoyce]

It looks like his blacks (negatives) are not isolated from input to output, therefore red to yellow is his pack voltage minus his 11.9V converter output. His converter seems to be working.

Bob

good point

[Volt_Ampere]

Almost all converters are not isolated input to output. This means that the negatives are connected internally.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Almost all converters are not isolated input to output. This means that the negatives are connected internally.

So true. It took me a bit of searching to find one that was isolated. I felt it was more important due my cart being an RXV. I wanted to keep the higher DC/DC converter noise on the output side isolated from the controller as much as I could. I also inserted RF chokes on the harness wires where it was connected, and at the controller itself. I located my 12V converter in the dash area, away from the controller location.

Bob

time to check the bulbs