Wiring plan for Accessories

[brianb920]

So, here is a relay.....Is this what I would use?

How does this get wired in?

All the schematics I have seen for golf carts haven't shown relays so I'm still trying to figure them out.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

So, here is a relay.....Is this what I would use?

How does this get wired in?

All the schematics I have seen for golf carts haven't shown relays so I'm still trying to figure them out.

The relay is energized through pins 85 and 86. Your switch can send + or - to activate that circuit. That circuit energizes the coil that throws the switch to connect 87 to 30. So, run a ground to 85 or 86 (doesn't matter) then run 12v power through your switch to 85 or 86. (Whichever one isn't grounded). Run the power supply wire to 30, or 87, and out the other way, then on to whatever you're powering.

Just think of the relay as having two sides. One side (85,86) tells the relay to throw the switch and complete the circuit of 87 and 30. 87 and 30 handle the heavy load.

[brianb920]

OK, now that I know how to wire it it, can someone explain why I need a relay?

Do I need one for every circuit? Even for low amp LED lights?

The highest amp accessory is the stereo amp which states a max of 15 amp draw. All others are LEDs with minimal draw.

Note that the switches I bought state that they are rated for 20 amps. Will it work ok without the relay as that simplifies the wiring significantly? What are my concerns or risks in not using relays?

Thanks in advance for the education.

i do not use relays on golf carts as there is nothing to need them
your switches are good with out relays

A relay may be used in circuits where it is not possible to have a direct electrical connection between the control circuit and the output device: eg due to the risk of damage to the circuit from back electromotive force (EMF)

A useful property of relays is that the circuit powering the coil is completely separate from the circuit switched on by the relay. For this reason relays are used where a safe low-voltage circuit controls a high-voltage circuit

[orangeman6]

Crash, he's going to need one if he switches the reducer, right? Like I said earlier, I spent a bunch on the switches I used. I wasn't going to ruin one over a $5 relay. This brings me back to when I posed the question here for my rebuild. A couple of guys said I needed them, couple guys said I didn't. Again, wasn't worth it to me to take the chance. Crash, it all comes down to how many amps the switch are rated for, correct?

no not for the reducer

yes it will depend on the switch

i use relays on my jeep winch and off road light

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

OK, now that I know how to wire it it, can someone explain why I need a relay?

Do I need one for every circuit? Even for low amp LED lights?

The highest amp accessory is the stereo amp which states a max of 15 amp draw. All others are LEDs with minimal draw.

Note that the switches I bought state that they are rated for 20 amps. Will it work ok without the relay as that simplifies the wiring significantly? What are my concerns or risks in not using relays?

Thanks in advance for the education.

Ahh, if your switches are rated for 20 amps, guess you wouldn't need one anywhere. I think mine were rated at 1. Ever taken a look at the bank of relays in your car? There's a ton of them, but again, it all comes down to the draw you're pulling and what the switch can handle. Even though your stereo says 15, and probably has a 15a fuse, unless you're driving some oversized speakers, it's probably pulling closer to 1 or 2 with normal use. You can always use a dvm to get a reading, but it sounds like you'll be fine without them.

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Crash, he's going to need one if he switches the reducer, right? Like I said earlier, I spent a bunch on the switches I used. I wasn't going to ruin one over a $5 relay. This brings me back to when I posed the question here for my rebuild. A couple of guys said I needed them, couple guys said I didn't. Again, wasn't worth it to me to take the chance. Crash, it all comes down to how many amps the switch are rated for, correct?

My switches are only $12.99 so not much more than a $5 relay and they say they are rated for 20 amps. The only one that pulls some amperage is the stereo amp and that is max 15 amps, so will keep my fingers crossed that the switch holds up.

Questions for anyone familiar with the Cartsunlimited 12V DC reducer (Scotty B?), I assume the line that runs from the keyswitch to the reducer shuts it down when the key is turned off. So, I wouldn't need a switch to turn off my reducer then, correct?

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Ahh, if your switches are rated for 20 amps, guess you wouldn't need one anywhere. I think mine were rated at 1. Ever taken a look at the bank of relays in your car? There's a ton of them, but again, it all comes down to the draw you're pulling and what the switch can handle. Even though your stereo says 15, and probably has a 15a fuse, unless you're driving some oversized speakers, it's probably pulling closer to 1 or 2 with normal use. You can always use a dvm to get a reading, but it sounds like you'll be fine without them.

That's my thoughts as well, just making sure they aren't crazy thoughts!

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by brianb920

My switches are only $12.99 so not much more than a $5 relay and they say they are rated for 20 amps. The only one that pulls some amperage is the stereo amp and that is max 15 amps, so will keep my fingers crossed that the switch holds up.

Questions for anyone familiar with the Cartsunlimited 12V DC reducer (Scotty B?), I assume the line that runs from the keyswitch to the reducer shuts it down when the key is turned off. So, I wouldn't need a switch to turn off my reducer then, correct?

Correct, so You need to make sure your radio does not need constant power for memory presets, etc..