Battery meter wiring to ignition switch

[yawood]

If you are going to get a 5-wire reducer to keep the cart close to OEM then I suggest this one from David at Revolution Golf Cars (one of the site sponsors)
https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...v-to-12v-30amp

[davjohn28]

Originally Posted by mrgolf

So you connected a 12 volt power source to 48 volts. Something is going to burn up.

i wired the ( yellow) 12V+ to the kill switch on the ignition so power will be shut off with the key. Ive read multiple times that it is ok to wire the 12V+ to the keyswitch but NOT the 48V+ to the keyswitch.
By all means i want to do this correctly. Both lights that are wired through converter have seperate inline 15a fuses.

all i plan to have wired is the headlights, and 2 LED lights and MAYBE a small USB charger down the road. Hopefully with the low current draw there should be a relatively simple and safe way to do so. I dont mind spending a few extra dollars if need be.

One thing that still gets me is when the solenoid clicks 15-20 seconds after key removal, is that the converter discharging after key removal, if so is there any issue with that process?

any asisstance is greatly appreciated.

[Sergio]

Club Car key switches only have 2 terminals so there is no way to wire both +48v to turn the cart OFF and +12v to turn the accessories OFF.

Does your non stock key switch have more than two terminals?

The correct way to wire the key switch to interrupt the +12v to accessories is to either use a reducer with a +48v trigger wire or a 48v coil relay that gets powered ON/OFF with the key switch and the relay interrupts the +12v power to the accessories.

[davjohn28]

my cart is a Yamaha Drive with a 3 wire key switch. I jumped into a clubcar thread, guess i should have clarified that.

[teecro]

What I decided to do with my voltage meter was to wire it to a 6 terminal DPDT ON/OFF/ON toggle switch. This way I could read battery voltage or reducer voltage. Since these little digital meters draw so little amperage I wired it always hot through the Tow/Run switch so the only time it does not display is if I've got the cart in Tow mode. And as with most reducers I've got it wired through the key so its only working when the cart is in use...

[davjohn28]

Originally Posted by teecro

What I decided to do with my voltage meter was to wire it to a 6 terminal DPDT ON/OFF/ON toggle switch. This way I could read battery voltage or reducer voltage. Since these little digital meters draw so little amperage I wired it always hot through the Tow/Run switch so the only time it does not display is if I've got the cart in Tow mode. And as with most reducers I've got it wired through the key so its only working when the cart is in use...

How do you have yours wired t keyswitch, is it the 12V+ from reducer to keystwitch or do you wire the 48V+ to the keyswitch.
I currently have 12v+ to keyswitch then to accessories, any issue with wiring this way?

[davjohn28]

Have 48+ ( with 15a inline fuse ) moutned to main battery Pos and 48- mounted to main battery neg.
Have 12V+ yellow ran to key switch ( to kill power when not using ) then spliced into headlights and 2 18w lights.... All lights are LED.
12V- is wired through to 12V light negative sides.

I dont plan to have any other accessories so is there any real need for fuse block, buss bar, relays, etc?
Both headlights and auxiliary lights have own inline fuses. Aux lights have relay installed as well as the wire kit came with it built in.

Im just nervous as 50% of people say to wire the 12V+ to the key switch and the other 50% say it will burn.

What do you think considering the very small draw across the lights i have wired up?

[davjohn28]

Well i may have just burnt my shiz up.

Discovered i had in fact connected my 48V+ ran to ignition switch as my " kill switch" decided to change it up and run the 48V+ back to battery with 20amp inline fuse.
Did that and better was sparking like a mofo, as i figured it would.

Once i got 48V+ terminal connected back to main battery pack i played with my 12V+ with wiring it to switch then all of a sudden cart said no thanks and reducer was HOT. got hot from literally 10 seconds of hooking up the 48V+.

Now when i turn key on nothing happens, reverse doesnt buzz, solenoid doesnt click, literally nothing....

is it possible that i just burnt my ignition switch? Im REALLY hoping that is all it is...

Is there a way to troublehsoot without throwing parts? i do not have a voltmeter btw.

[yawood]

I'm afraid I can't help you if you do not also help yourself. I posted very clear instructions as to how the reducer should be hooked up with both words and diagrams but I have no confidence that you read and/or understood them.

I suggest that if you want to fit a reducer you get the one I posted the link for from Revolution Golf Cars or one from Scotty at Carts Unlimited https://www.cartsunlimited.net/12v-reducers.html. Either of these gentlemen will sell you a good quality 5-wire reducer that bolts on easily and has clear instructions for installation. They will also offer support if you have trouble fitting it. That way you will not have to worry about fitting a relay and you will not be putting too much current through the key switch.

Once you have fitted your reducer, remember that the 12V circuits and the 48V circuits are completely separate so don't try to connect them together.

Just remember that a 48V battery pack, such as those in our carts, packs a very serious punch and can do a lot of damage if it is mishandled. You can weld metals with a single battery! Always turn the Run/Tow switch to Tow and disconnect the positive from the pack before you do any electrical work. Also you really can't do any electrical work without a multimeter which are available for literally only a few dollars from auto stores, hardware stores or electronic stores.

Good luck.

Edit: I just remembered that you said you had a Yamaha. The principles of fitting a reducer are the same no matter which electrical cart it is and the reducers I have recommended will still work however you might want to buy a reducer that is meant to fit on you Yamaha so that it bolts on easily and connects easily to the Yamaha loom. You would need to be on the Yamaha thread for that information.

[davjohn28]

Originally Posted by yawood

I'm afraid I can't help you if you do not also help yourself. I posted very clear instructions as to how the reducer should be hooked up with both words and diagrams but I have no confidence that you read and/or understood them.

I suggest that if you want to fit a reducer you get the one I posted the link for from Revolution Golf Cars or one from Scotty at Carts Unlimited https://www.cartsunlimited.net/12v-reducers.html. Either of these gentlemen will sell you a good quality 5-wire reducer that bolts on easily and has clear instructions for installation. They will also offer support if you have trouble fitting it. That way you will not have to worry about fitting a relay and you will not be putting too much current through the key switch.

Once you have fitted your reducer, remember that the 12V circuits and the 48V circuits are completely separate so don't try to connect them together.

Just remember that a 48V battery pack, such as those in our carts, packs a very serious punch and can do a lot of damage if it is mishandled. You can weld metals with a single battery! Always turn the Run/Tow switch to Tow and disconnect the positive from the pack before you do any electrical work. Also you really can't do any electrical work without a multimeter which are available for literally only a few dollars from auto stores, hardware stores or electronic stores.

Good luck.

Edit: I just remembered that you said you had a Yamaha. The principles of fitting a reducer are the same no matter which electrical cart it is and the reducers I have recommended will still work however you might want to buy a reducer that is meant to fit on you Yamaha so that it bolts on easily and connects easily to the Yamaha loom. You would need to be on the Yamaha thread for that information.

I am sorry dad, i get excited sometimes!!

I ended up finding it, i blew the ignition fuse, tested it with new fuse and cart is fine.
Chunked the cheap reducer and immediately ordered a 30a reducer kit with fuse block and bus bar from Scotty B. Ordered new set of 4 gang rocker switches and will do correctly this time.... hopefully!!!