1996 Club Car won't move

[belleaut]

I have a 1996 Club Car Power Drive Plus, Serial Number A9627-508280.

I started to back up the other day and heard a loud clunk in the back. The cart stopped and has not moved since. (No forward or reverse) I have full battery and I have done many of the tests on the electrical parts. Both solenoids are fine. The motor is getting full power in both forward and reverse. (Did the tests)

When I turn the key the main solenoid clicks on. When I press the pedal the second solenoid click and the electric motor turns, but is very quiet. Nothing in the axel/trans moves.

It is up on jack stands. I can turn one wheel one way and the other turns the opposite direction unless I place tension on it. Then they both will turn the same way.

My guess is something broke between the electric motor and the axel. I have read about different club cars that have the splines on the axel wear out, but I believe mine is not made that way. My axel is held in place by a round clip and not a nut. I cannot see what is spinning on the axel. However, I do not hear anything beyond the electric motor spinning when I depress the pedal.

I know my OBC is bad because I have to jump the wire to charge the batteries. I use a 2-4 hour timer to keep from frying the new batteries I put in the Spring. I have been running it this way for 2 months now.

I believe it is the trans/axel. Any direction on what I should look at or test first would be very helpful. I have already downloaded the manuals and it is great for troubleshooting the electrical. Not so great for the trans/axel.
Thank you in advance for your help.

[belleaut]

I also forgot to add it is a 48 volt car.

[eagant5]

First thing I would do is pull the motor out. Could be possibly a broken input shaft.

[belleaut]

Thank you, I will do that this morning.

[belleaut]

I pulled the motor and did not see anything that was wrong. The differiential appears to be intact. I think I may have misread the motor running. There is a soft noise that sounds like something spinning, but it cannot be the motor turning at full go. I did not try to bench test the motor based on what I read on the web. I did do the continuity test as long as I had it on the floor. I did the same test when it was still in. Same results of no short. The only item I have not checked is the Potentiometer. I believe it located underneath the foot pedal. I will try to do the Multi-step Potentiometer: test next. I am not very good with an OMS meter.

When I put the motor back together and pressed the foot pedal, the spinning noise ran for about 2 seconds, then paused and started again for two seconds. It then quit and would not repeat until I turned off the key and then turned it back on again. Just some more input that might help pinpoint my issue. I will update after the next test.
Thanks

[belleaut]

I am back to the start. I can not perform the test on the Potentiometer: My cart requires the "Calibration Test Module (CTM)
Any suggestions. I would assume I could not return a new Potentiometer if I purchased one and it did not fix my problem.

[joesam]

think I may have misread the motor running

I thought that was an odd conclusion - the whine you hear is the controller.

"Calibration Test Module

Do you have the big pie shaped potentiometer between batteries or the CVP mounted below the floorboards? Both were used on that model. Both can be measured for 0-5K ohms if unplugged. Also - what color is your controller...BLACK? Nonetheless if your next statement is true - its not the potentiometer....

I am puzzled by your statement

The motor is getting full power in both forward and reverse

. How did you measure that? At A-1 & A2? If true - your cart would be moving (unless the motor has an internal failure eg. brushes frozen - not touching commutator). Unless the voltage is getting there but no amps - in which case it's more complicated.

[belleaut]

The Potentiometer is under the floorboards. How do I test it for 0-5k ohms? (If I need to do the test)
The controller is Black.
When I wrote full power I should have said "full battery voltage". I used Test Procedure 37 - Voltage to Motor F1 and F2 Terminals. (This test is listed in the manual)

Any ideas on what my next step would be. So far the help and suggestion have been much appreciated.
The manual does not list a motor test. I have seen some post on the internet to test, but not sure if I am there just yet.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Does the controller "Whine" change pitch according to the position of the throttle?

[joesam]

Tahoe can take it from here - he's way smarter than most of us. But just so you know - F1/F2 is the field coil in you motor - when you turn the key - it automatically receives max pack volts (approx 48+v) to create the magnetic field for the motor armature to spin within. It's A1 & A2 that power the vehicle and if your system is working, they will show variable voltage relative to throttle - from low volts/low throttle to wide open (max pack voltage).