98 EZ-GO Diagnostics and Logs

[adog35]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Dumb question: Does the programmer have a set button or something similar that has to be pushed for controller to take new settings.
If so, was it pushed?

From what I see on the log, the up ramp time is far longer than 0.4S.

The controller might have some issues, maybe contacting Curtis might help.


Of course, IMHO, getting an Alltrax SR controller would be best.

Could the controllers PWM taking 4 seconds to reach 100% have anything
to do with the ITS throttle sensor? Or is that the controller just
being slow to respond?

I added a second log into the folder. I made sure to go 100% right away.
It read 100% PMW quickly but still took 2 seconds before it delivered full volts to the motor.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by adog35

Could the controllers PWM taking 4 seconds to reach 100% have anything
to do with the ITS throttle sensor? Or is that the controller just
being slow to respond?

I added a second log into the folder. I made sure to go 100% right away.
It read 100% PMW quickly but still took 2 seconds before it delivered full volts to the motor.

It really sounds like you ended up with a chinese made Curtis clone, not a real Curtis controller. The clones don't have the current passing capacity of the real Curtis controllers, so they use a VCL that limits inrush current. No matter what you do at the parameter level, it cannot override the VCL limits.

The clones may look like the real thing, which is why they go out of the way to make them look real, but they do not perform like the real thing. Many people have been fooled.

[adog35]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

It really sounds like you ended up with a chinese made Curtis clone, not a real Curtis controller. The clones don't have the current passing capacity of the real Curtis controllers, so they use a VCL that limits inrush current. No matter what you do at the parameter level, it cannot override the VCL limits.

The clones may look like the real thing, which is why they go out of the way to make them look real, but they do not perform like the real thing. Many people have been fooled.

I would have to agree. It came from a seller overseas. While Curtis did
confirm the serial number to be legitimate, that doesn't mean the company
didn't copy it from a genuine one.


(The "Curtis" I have from this company.)
https://www.nocoev.com/product/1205M-5603.htm


(Another version that looks identical to "Curtis" version)
https://www.nocoev.com/product/P125M-5603.htm



I would be lead to believe that they are all cheap in house knockoffs regardless
if the controller says Cutis.


Oh well, you live and learn.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by adog35

I would have to agree. It came from a seller overseas. While Curtis did
confirm the serial number to be legitimate, that doesn't mean the company
didn't copy it from a genuine one.


(The "Curtis" I have from this company.)
https://www.nocoev.com/product/1205M-5603.htm


(Another version that looks identical to "Curtis" version)
https://www.nocoev.com/product/P125M-5603.htm



I would be lead to believe that they are all cheap in house knockoffs regardless
if the controller says Cutis.


Oh well, you live and learn.

Yes, it looks like a knockoff made by one of the former Curtis manufacturers in China. Curtis learned not to trust chinese manufacturers several years ago. They are still made in other asian countries like Malaysia and Singapore, but most legitimate Curtis controllers will not have Made in China on the label these days. Some old stock may still be around that were legitimate. The worst way to find out is after you buy it and connect it to a Curtis programmer, only to find that the firmware (OS) in it is not a real Curtis OS. Of course, most of the programmers available through China are knockoffs as well, and lack the access level required to get into the nuts and bolts of the OS. You'll find parameters missing, added psuedo-parameters that are not in the real Curtis controllers, software ratings that are beyond the capabilities of the hardware on the PCB, ect. For example, a 275 Amp controller PCB in a housing with a 500 Amp rating on the label. A dead giveaway is a rating that does not match the physical dimensions of a Curtis controller of that rating. Advertisements for upgraded ratings or features, Curtis does not permit that in legitimate Curtis controllers. You cannot truly upgrade the current capacity of a controller without physically installing higher capacity components, and the heat dissipating capacity of the housing/heat sink to match.

[adog35]

Ordered an SR-48500 from ScottyB. Can't wait!

[adog35]

Got the controller installed today. Beyond impressed.
The cart has more torque than I know what to do with. Wired a personality
switch for guest and kids.

I was able to use PayPal buyers protection for the fake Curtis controller I
purchased.

Mounted the two extra Trojan’s in the rear using battery trays bolted to the frame and straps. I will likely order a watering kit for the rear batteries.


Thank you again for everyone’s surport.


1B5DE492-C4F5-4A20-846A-8153F45040A3.jpg
19C2B9A7-169B-4D60-A6C3-03C03C8C76B0.jpg

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by adog35

Got the controller installed today. Beyond impressed.
The cart has more torque than I know what to do with. Wired a personality
switch for guest and kids.

I was able to use PayPal buyers protection for the fake Curtis controller I
purchased.

Mounted the two extra Trojan’s in the rear using battery trays bolted to the frame and straps. I will likely order a watering kit for the rear batteries.


Thank you again for everyone’s surport.


Attachment 166995
Attachment 166996
Attachment 166997

You can't go wrong with Alltrax!