2008 CC Precedent - bad controller?

[Chalmettian]

2008 CC Precedent 48V with 4 x 12V new Trojan batts, SN PQ0827-xxxxxx, Curtis Model 1510-5201 controller

I purchased the cart in July. The cart ran mostly fine, but slightly jerky when taking off in forward or reverse. I assumed that was OK for a 12 year old cart. I installed a 6" lift kit and 23" tires on it. The cart was awesome. But over the course of several weeks, the cart would sometimes not work: batts fully charged, turn key on, put in F/R, push gas, nothing. To make things more interesting, if I pushed the gas while bouncing up and down on the seat, the cart would go, no problems. Well, it progressively got worse. The bouncing method doesnt work any more. So I started reading the BGW forums trying to troubleshoot. Sounded like a loose connection somewhere. I have changed the MCOR, ignition switch, and solenoid. However, during all of my troubleshooting, I never heard the solenoid click until after I installed the brand new one.

So here's where I am. I put the cart on jack stands, put in tow mode, disconnect the batts, let it sit for a few minutes. Then I reconnect batts, put in run, turn key switch, put in Forward, put screwdriver across solenoid, push pedal, the wheels turn, but only up to a certain speed. If I push the pedal too far, it stops. If I put it back in tow mode and let it sit for a few minutes, then flip it back to run, it will again run at a low speed but trip if pedal is pushed too far.

I also the checked motor. I have 1.8 ohms across F1/F2. Other posts showed no continuity.

Im running out of ideas and hoping that you experienced CC owners can help. I'm thinking it's something very simple. Thanks in advance.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

2008 CC Precedent 48V with 4 x 12V new Trojan batts, SN PQ0827-xxxxxx, Curtis Model 1510-5201 controller



I purchased the cart in July. The cart ran mostly fine, but slightly jerky when taking off in forward or reverse. I assumed that was OK for a 12 year old cart. I installed a 6" lift kit and 23" tires on it. The cart was awesome. But over the course of several weeks, the cart would sometimes not work: batts fully charged, turn key on, put in F/R, push gas, nothing. To make things more interesting, if I pushed the gas while bouncing up and down on the seat, the cart would go, no problems. Well, it progressively got worse. The bouncing method doesnt work any more. So I started reading the BGW forums trying to troubleshoot. Sounded like a loose connection somewhere. I have changed the MCOR, ignition switch, and solenoid. However, during all of my troubleshooting, I never heard the solenoid click until after I installed the brand new one.



So here's where I am. I put the cart on jack stands, put in tow mode, disconnect the batts, let it sit for a few minutes. Then I reconnect batts, put in run, turn key switch, put in Forward, put screwdriver across solenoid, push pedal, the wheels turn, but only up to a certain speed. If I push the pedal too far, it stops. If I put it back in tow mode and let it sit for a few minutes, then flip it back to run, it will again run at a low speed but trip if pedal is pushed too far.



I also the checked motor. I have 1.8 ohms across F1/F2. Other posts showed no continuity.



Im running out of ideas and hoping that you experienced CC owners can help. I'm thinking it's something very simple. Thanks in advance.

Are you saying you get no continuity between A1 and A2? If that is the case then that is your problem. Bad brushes probably.

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[Chalmettian]

Motor test:

F1 to F2 = 1.8 ohms
A1 to A2 = continuity
A1 to body = no continuity
A2 to body = no continuity
F1 to body = no continuity
F2 to body = no continuity
A1 to F1 = no continuity

Sorry for the confusion.

[mgray70]

Motor seems to be checking out. Check all battery cables real good. Measure the voltage on the b+ and b- at the controller with the pedal pressed enough to make the solenoid close to make sure the controller is getting voltage from the batteries.

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[Chalmettian]

I actually never hear the solenoid click, only the one time after installing the brand new one.

So last night I tried to get the solenoid to close based on suggestions from another post: As a test you could jumper the small solenoid terminal (Blue/White) to GND (B-) to see if the solenoid large contacts close.

Things got worse. Now my backup buzzer doesnt come on when putting cart in reverse. The cart doesnt beep when pushed. I have no power at the ignition key or the F/R switch. Did I screw anything up?

[Chalmettian]

Thanks for the help mgray70.

Update. 15A fuse was blown. Now we are back to a non moving cart, but the reverse buzzer and the walkaway braking buzzer is functioning again.

I printed out the wiring diagram and checked every wire for continuity last night assuming i would find a short or a damaged sonic weld. Everything checked out.

My guess is that the motor and/or controller is the problem. I have surpassed my experience level here. Im bringing the cart to a local shop today with diagnostic capabilities. Fingers crossed.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

Thanks for the help mgray70.



Update. 15A fuse was blown. Now we are back to a non moving cart, but the reverse buzzer and the walkaway braking buzzer is functioning again.



I printed out the wiring diagram and checked every wire for continuity last night assuming i would find a short or a damaged sonic weld. Everything checked out.



My guess is that the motor and/or controller is the problem. I have surpassed my experience level here. Im bringing the cart to a local shop today with diagnostic capabilities. Fingers crossed. [emoji107]

It probably is the controller, but that is an expensive part to be throwing at problem just to see if it fixes it. Just educate yourself here enough to keep the cart shop in check and not screw you around.

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[WalterM6]

What is your battery pack voltage when fully charged?

[Chalmettian]

50.9 v

[Chalmettian]

The guy at the cart shop is saying the controller is bad because they cant clear any codes with the programmer. Does this make sense?

Do I buy a refurb Curtis 1510-5201 controller and hope for the best, or do I upgrade to aftermarket (ie- Alltrax) and cut my losses?

Thanks again for the help!