CC Precedent Jerking and Will Not Run

[jake_ormond@yahoo.com]

I recently bought a 2010 CC Precedent that needed some work. I installed some new batteries (US Batteries) and the car ran. The charger did not work, nor would my neighbors work on my cart. I bypassed the OBC and bought a MODZ Max 48. Everything worked well for a while until I ran through a puddle and the vehicle stalled. Once dry, it ran again. A couple weeks latter it just died while driving the cart. The day was dry and warm. The relay was not clicking, I removed it and the resistance as very high, very far out of spec. I replaced the relay and the relay would click on, and then off is a few seconds. The vehicle would run at very slow speeds, I mean really slow. I think I jumped the gun a little and read a post where the controller was bad when this was happening. I bought an XCT48300IQ Alltrax controller. The one I pulled out was a Curtis 1510A-5251. The new controller did not solve the issues. I went to look at my MCOR next, to find out that I did not have an MCOR, but had a TPS sensor. I've replaced the TPS sensor with a MCOR 4. Spliced all of the same color wires together with the odd colors out getting spliced together. I was hoping it was the TPS that was the problem....nope. In the setup for the XCT controller, I turned off the speed sensor to see if that was the problem. It did not make any difference. When I installed the XCT controller, I also deleted the OBC completely. On the 6 pin connector to the OBC, I cut the connector off the OBC, pulled all of the wires except the blue and white, those I spliced together and connected it on teh cart. Today, I decided to check the motor and could not find any issues. The two large posts had connectivity (low resistance with ohm meter) , two small posts had connectivity, none of the posts had connectivity to the casing of the motor. I pulled the power cables off the motor and jumped it to 2 8v batteries and the motor ran fine in both forward and reverse. I lifted the wheels off the ground with a floor jack. So now I'm stumped and not sure where to look. I uploaded a monitoring file from the XCT controller. The motor voltage drops. I did put a voltmeter on the batteries when this happens and the volts are not dropping on the battery pack. A lot of detail, some missing. Anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure what's going on.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by jake_ormond@yahoo.com

I recently bought a 2010 CC Precedent that needed some work. I installed some new batteries (US Batteries) and the car ran. The charger did not work, nor would my neighbors work on my cart. I bypassed the OBC and bought a MODZ Max 48. Everything worked well for a while until I ran through a puddle and the vehicle stalled. Once dry, it ran again. A couple weeks latter it just died while driving the cart. The day was dry and warm. The relay was not clicking, I removed it and the resistance as very high, very far out of spec. I replaced the relay and the relay would click on, and then off is a few seconds. The vehicle would run at very slow speeds, I mean really slow. I think I jumped the gun a little and read a post where the controller was bad when this was happening. I bought an XCT48300IQ Alltrax controller. The one I pulled out was a Curtis 1510A-5251. The new controller did not solve the issues. I went to look at my MCOR next, to find out that I did not have an MCOR, but had a TPS sensor. I've replaced the TPS sensor with a MCOR 4. Spliced all of the same color wires together with the odd colors out getting spliced together. I was hoping it was the TPS that was the problem....nope. In the setup for the XCT controller, I turned off the speed sensor to see if that was the problem. It did not make any difference. When I installed the XCT controller, I also deleted the OBC completely. On the 6 pin connector to the OBC, I cut the connector off the OBC, pulled all of the wires except the blue and white, those I spliced together and connected it on teh cart. Today, I decided to check the motor and could not find any issues. The two large posts had connectivity (low resistance with ohm meter) , two small posts had connectivity, none of the posts had connectivity to the casing of the motor. I pulled the power cables off the motor and jumped it to 2 8v batteries and the motor ran fine in both forward and reverse. I lifted the wheels off the ground with a floor jack. So now I'm stumped and not sure where to look. I uploaded a monitoring file from the XCT controller. The motor voltage drops. I did put a voltmeter on the batteries when this happens and the volts are not dropping on the battery pack. A lot of detail, some missing. Anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure what's going on.

to BGW!

You seemed to have checked or replaced everything that would be suspect. What really needs to be done, even with a new pack, is check the pack voltage and each individual battery with a digital meter to the second decimal.

Do this right after charging and then again 24 hours later. A new pack will not run anywhere near 100% for several to 10 charge cycles. Post the voltage readings here.

I am not able to read your monitoring file. Maybe another member will be able to. See if you can post the pages of settings for your Alltrax also.

[jake_ormond@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by Tom47

to BGW!

You seemed to have checked or replaced everything that would be suspect. What really needs to be done, even with a new pack, is check the pack voltage and each individual battery with a digital meter to the second decimal.

Do this right after charging and then again 24 hours later. A new pack will not run anywhere near 100% for several to 10 charge cycles. Post the voltage readings here.

I am not able to read your monitoring file. Maybe another member will be able to. See if you can post the pages of settings for your Alltrax also.

Tom47,
I will try to do this shortly. The pack voltage read with a volt meter was over 50 volts when the voltage read at the controller was around 40. Not sure where I'm loosing the voltage.

I have not re-installed the motor cables yet. Once I re-install them I'll check each battery voltage as you suggested and post Pictures of the setup pages from the Alltrax software.

[WalterM6]

If your contactor (solenoid) isn't closing and staying closed your cart will run like that. That's because it's trying to run off the voltage on the capacitors in the controller.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

If your contactor (solenoid) isn't closing and staying closed your cart will run like that. That's because it's trying to run off the voltage on the capacitors in the controller.

And maybe why he only reads 40 volts at the controller.

[jake_ormond@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

If your contactor (solenoid) isn't closing and staying closed your cart will run like that. That's because it's trying to run off the voltage on the capacitors in the controller.

Maybe the new solenoid I bought is defective. When I installed it with the Curtis controller, it would click on, then off after a few seconds when I tried to give it some throttle.

[WalterM6]

It should stay on. Check that you have the diode on correctly. Pos to the band on the diode.

[jake_ormond@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

It should stay on. Check that you have the diode on correctly. Pos to the band on the diode.

I double checked the diode on the actuator side. It looks correct to me. I cannot really see the silver strip that great. But I put the ohm meter on it. I got .531v with the negative lead on the positive side and open when I switched. See image.

Before anyone asks, I had to replace the yellow cable from the solenoid to the controller. All I had was some red battery cable at the time.

[WalterM6]

When I installed it with the Curtis controller

The picture shows a Alltrax. It also shows that you have two diodes connected and the pink wire going to the run tow switch appears to be missing.

[jake_ormond@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

The picture shows a Alltrax. It also shows that you have two diodes connected and the pink wire going to the run tow switch appears to be missing.

It’s hidden behind multimeter.