1996 Ezgo with Snowmobile motor - Need Gearing Help!

[MIKEPEER]

also your center to center, alignment, and belt width are very important...

[bkboatnsleds]

Originally Posted by MIKEPEER

your not going to get a golf cart secondary to shift like the one on your sled......maybe ok but not as good. your taking a clutch that has a spring rate and ramp angle to shift out on a stock golf cart motor. it's not gonna shift the same with a motor well over twice the hp and rpm. untill someone makes different angle helix and different spring rates other then stock and "power springs" your not gonna make it shift as good. another thing to keep in mind is that a cvt is torque sensing...so it's not gonna shift the same on stands as it will driving. i wanna see this thing run like it should like everyone else on here but the bottom line is you might make it shift ok, but it won't shift like it should. there are a few guys on here with sleds and they can also tell you how important a good clutch kit is....
you took the time to put the motor in don't half *** it now....put the sled secondary on and make it a true death trap...

LOL yes, i agree - you are correct. Problem is the shaft on a snowmobile secondary clutch is keyed, where this is splined. - I could probally have the shaft machined and keyed..

I also agree the belt thickness is an issue. The only belt I could find to be long enough was from a John Dee Gator, i believe its 1.25" thick. Semms to fit in EZgo clutch ok, and I shimmed the polaris clutch for the thinner belt.

[MIKEPEER]

what about taking a rear out of a club car.....aren't they keyed? just a thought.

one more thing to check on is if your belt is to long your drive with be shifted out but your driven might be only half and you would have more of an underdrive instead of the overdrive that your gunning for. same would go if your belt is to short....but bass ackwards if you know what i'm trying to say. kind of what tonyton is telling you just in a different way.

one way to check to see of you are getting over a 1:1 ratio or even a full shift out is to take a marker and mark a good line on both clutches. that's about the best way i know how to do it.

[bkboatnsleds]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk70_PfKzGo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk70_PfKzGo

This was before we got the clutches dialed in.... its 2'x as fast on take off and top end!

[DOOmsman]

Now I want to see the couch towed behind the cart.

[RUDEINC]

What did you end up doing to dial in the clutches?

[svtturttle]

Yeah what did you do with the clutches .

[bkboatnsleds]

Well the secondary was JUNK - so we replaced that with a new one... The primary I had to have put on a lathe and milled down to match the smaller size of the belt we needed to use.

I like the idea of towin the couch!! :)

[turbosundance]

I wanted to clarify things for people. The primary clutch is the dominant clutch and will control upshifting. The secondary will take control of the primary only if the motor is not creating enough torque to maintain speed at the current gear ratio and it will force the primary to downshift to create more torque. This all assuming that belt width and spacing is setup correctly.

[ruredy]

Originally Posted by turbosundance

I wanted to clarify things for people. The primary clutch is the dominant clutch and will control upshifting. The secondary will take control of the primary only if the motor is not creating enough torque to maintain speed at the current gear ratio and it will force the primary to downshift to create more torque. This all assuming that belt width and spacing is setup correctly.

While this may seem correct..... it really isn't. The driven clutch is the one that controls the shifting more or less. while they both play a role in the way the cart shifts, it is the driven clutch that controls the rate of progression though out the gearing. This is why we modify the driven instead of the drive clutch.