Lost All 48 Volt Current

[yurtle]

I had a UPS die, and managed to convince them to give me a schematic. They just required a non-disclosure agreement, which I gladly signed. This was pre-email/Internet days, which meant real phone calls to real people, who snail mailed me what I needed.

[mganoe]

I spoke with the Curtis rep again today and I can't begin to express how impressed I am with all the help he has offered when he was under no obligation to do so.

That being said he is just as confused on the harness as I have been given the pins don't match the standard configuration. I believe JohnnieB that you hit the nail right on the head with both your description and schematic and I thank you for both.

Hopefully I'll be able to go though my Curtis contact and be able to bypass what yurtle went through, but it is certainly a though and would be good to have on hand in the future.

In short the Curtis rep is convinced that without power on pins 1,2, and 4 that the controller will not power up. What he had me do was jump B+ or the battery hot to the white key terminal which would send power to pin 1 and if it powered up his suggestion was to cut the 12 pin from the harness and install a permanent line to B+.

Needless to say I still have no light, so at this point I'm now convinced that it is the controller.

Unfortunately in this case the Run/Tow was not and option as I was trying to identify terminals on the fully charged system. My downfall was not taking my time and rushing to test things one more time in cramped quarters.

Now my focus will turn to what performance gains I can get out of my stupid mistake.

Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Check with FSIP: http://www.fsip.biz/GolfCarts.html

They are a BGW site sponsor and have re-manufactured 1268-5411 controllers at a reasonable price. Give them a call, they might be able to get you the performance you want.

They also might have more info on how to test it.

[mganoe]

I just wanted to let you know that I did reach out to the company you suggested and I have since found out that this is a specially built controller from Curtis for EZ-Go. FSIP did not even carry that model in their order inventory, and although they offered to take a look at it for me it seemed like their hands were tied if it turned out to be anything with the boards, which it most likely will be.

Several weeks ago I sent a shot in the dark email to the engineering department at D & D Motor Systems to which I quickly received a response from Eric stating that they were not familiar with the Curtis systems and that I should contact a Curtis Dealer. Eric highly recommended Bohlingers and said to ask for Steve.

Well Steve has been amazing at the time he has devoted on the phone at trying to help me through troubleshooting my problem even though he very possibly stood to get nothing out of the process.

I've since sent the controller to Bohlingers who will then send it back to Curtis to be rebuilt. From what I understand Curtis will not attempt to diagnose the problem unless you request it (and pay extra), but will simply begin replacing the boards until it once again checks out.

Keeping my fingers crossed everything will be good once I get it back.

[yurtle]

Good to see there are still folks out there who didn't completely outsource their customer service.

[matsmoren@live.com]

Hi. I did the same as you and I damage the controller. What did you do? Switch the controller ? Send it to fix it ?